Melbourne, get ready to sweat. After more than a decade abroad, Sydney-born chef David Thompson returned to the country in November 2015, to open Long Chim Perth. Long Chim Sydney followed less than a year later.

Now it’s our turn.

Thompson is best known for his uncompromising approach to Thai cuisine, honed after many years living and working in Bangkok. He’s written two books on the subject and scored a Michelin star with Nahm, his restaurant in London. It was the first Thai restaurant in the world to land the accolade.

Expect stubborn authenticity across staples such as pad Thai, green curry and tom-yum soup, plus lesser-known dishes such as sour orange curries (which give coconut cream a rest) and Chiang Mai larb (chicken, pepper and chilli). How authentic? Australia’s chillies, limes, turmeric and other key Thai ingredients don’t cut it for Thompson – he imports many of them himself.

In line with this philosophy, the menu can reach searing levels of heat. But as we found out in August, Thompson is unrepentant on that front. “I don't care. My responsibility is that dishes are faithful to what they should be.”

Like we said: get ready to sweat.