First Look: The Tzaki Team Opens Charcoal Chicken Shop Kokoras in Yarraville

Charcoal chicken is having a moment in Melbourne. Across the city, chefs are giving the humble chook a handsome glow-up. There’s Korean-style chook shop Smoky Hen in Mount Waverley, former Earth Angels chef Narit Kismat’s Thai chicken shop Yang Thai in St Kilda and Lebanese chicken shop Habibi Chicken in Preston to name a few.

Now we’re seeing a new Greek take hit the streets of Yarraville with Kokoras, a deeply personal project from chef Alex Xinis. He’s headed the kitchens at The Press Club and Hellenic Republic, but is best known for Tzaki, a contemporary Greek diner two doors down on Ballarat Street, where everything is made in the large Brick Chef -made woodfired oven.

But Kokoras is a different beast. It’s takeaway-first, dessert-free and wholly dedicated to excellent charcoal chicken. “I’ve wanted to open a chicken shop for over a decade,” says Xinis. “Chicken and chips night at home was big for us growing up. Mum and Dad, Greek food, rotisserie chicken – this is really nostalgic for me.”

The birds here are butterflied and their backbones are removed before they’re brined in thyme, honey and sea salt. They’re grilled over charcoal, brushed with rosemary-infused ghee, and finished with a zippy baste of oregano, mustard, lemon and olive oil. “I can’t get over how juicy it is,” says Xinis. “And dipping it in our house-made taramasalata? That’s a win.”

The menu includes quarter, half and whole birds (the latter for $29), plus changing salads. There’s not a fried chippy in sight. Instead, you’ll find lemon-braised potatoes made with stock, bay and aromatics. There’s also a chicken wrap with taramasalata wrapped in the same grilled flatbreads Xinis is known for at Tzaki.

The space is larger than Tzaki, but there’s minimal seating as the goal is to be heavy on takeaway. But design studio Wingnut (which also did the fit-outs at Hot-Listed venues Masses Bagels and Cumbe) has maximised the footprint with custom stools made from recycled plastic, a bar-style bench and a stainless-steel bain marie with a footrest built in.

Delivery is handled in-house (within five kilometres) via the website. “It’s very old-school,” says Xinis, who has also set up a landline phone for orders. “For accountability purposes, I want people to be able to call us if there are any issues.”

While some Tzaki prep will happen at Kokoras, the venues are distinct and there won’t really be any crossover of menu items. “It’s a good opportunity to share the space,” says Xinis. “But Kokoras is more mainstream, more local, [with] an affordable approach. I’m hoping the people in Yarraville will get behind it like they have Tzaki.”

Kokoras
27 Ballarat Street, Yarraville
(03) 9989 6926

Hours:
Daily midday–9pm

kokoras.au
www.kokoras.com.au