Where Chefs Eat: The Suburban Wine Bar Small Batch’s Jo Chan Can’t Get Enough Of

North Melbourne coffee shop and roastery Small Batch has long been one of the best under-the-radar spots for baked goods. Charlie Duffy developed the pastry program and led the team until he left last year to open his Hot Listed Abbotsford bakery Daybaker. 

Now Jo Chan, who joined Small Batch in 2022, leads the team as head chef. She draws inspiration from her Cantonese heritage, something she says is foundational to her palate. “A Mont Blanc or XO sauce reimagined as a viennoiserie, or a pineapple tart through the lens of laminated pastry – that’s where I have the most fun,” Chan says. 

We caught up with the pastry pro to find out where (and what) she’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

Favourite bakery

“That’s like picking a favourite child. Plot is my neighbourhood bakery, and their sogeum [Korean salt bread] and melonpan are one of a kind. I also have a soft spot for Daybaker. Charlie has been an important mentor to me, and what he and his team are creating is beautiful.”

Go-to breakfast spot

“Melbourne is hard to beat when it comes to breakfast. For me, it’s Hector’s Deli for the sausage-and-egg muffin, Masses Bagels for the green tomato bagel or Soaz 22 for the salmon Benedict. They never disappoint.”

Best place for a drink and snacks
“Cardwell Cellars is my hidden gem. Their selection spans local, European and Chinese wines, and the sommeliers are incredibly knowledgeable and always happy to share the stories behind each bottle. They also regularly collaborate with fantastic chefs for pop-ups, making every visit a little different.”

Date night recommendation

“Cordelia. It’s warm and intimate. The casarecce is delicious. The space, the light and the service all come together to create something magical.”

Favourite ice-cream or gelato spot

“Kori hojicha and genmaicha every single time. If there’s tea involved, I’m in. I’m also fanatical about their black sesame.”

Special occasion spot

“At the moment, it’s Yiaga. The whole experience, from the space and sequencing of the menu to the way they express Australian cuisine, is refreshing and every element feels considered. It reminds me of my time in Denmark. The tofu, coconut water and macadamia dish is a beautiful example of how to let each ingredient shine. The level of technique and the precision of the cooking and the finesse of the service, it’s truly special.”

Best banh mi

“Luke’s. Get the crackling pork and charcoal barbeque pork combination, then find the nearest park and eat it in the sunshine. It’s one of life’s little joys.”

Best place to eat with a big group

“Golden Dragon Palace. Traditional trolley yum cha never gets old. A little of this, a bite of that, bamboo steamers and conversations filling the table as everyone reaches for an egg tart, siu mai or fried whitebait.”

Favourite dessert

“Tofu Shoten always makes my day. Everything is delicious, meaningful and full of soul. A drizzle of homemade osmanthus syrup over their silken tofu makes the perfect dessert. I’ve recently been fortunate enough to collaborate with Tofu Shoten using their beautiful tofu, okara and kinako. It’s always exciting to learn about someone else’s craft, and it has given me an even deeper appreciation for the passion, dedication and stories behind what they do.”

Best place to eat as a solo diner

“Sogumm – delicious, complex and endlessly comforting. I’m hooked on fermentation, so that could be part of the reason. Sitting at the bar and watching the chefs in action makes me feel connected to the history, identity and seasonality behind the cuisine. Their kimchi is incredibly bright and clean. I always leave feeling deeply nourished.”

Best place for a late-night feed
“Honestly, my alarm goes off at 4.30am most days, so ‘late-night’ doesn’t really exist in my biological vocabulary anymore. But when I do stay out, Bar Kaeru is my pick. One glass of saké somehow always becomes two, and the snacks make it very hard to leave.”

Best coffee
“Calere. Alicia [Feng] and her team are masters of their craft. Beautiful coffee and remarkable consistency, which is often the hardest thing to achieve. You have to constantly challenge yourself to stay consistent. It’s deceptively simple.”

Restaurant you wish could come back for a night

“I’d love one more chance to visit Benyue Kitchen. Their sweet-and-sour pork reminded me so much of my mum’s cooking, and that calibre of Cantonese cuisine is incredibly rare to find.”

Venue you’ve visited the most over the years

“Probably Tan Thanh Loi. It’s been a regular Sunday lunch spot with my partner and tennis mates. Their chargrilled pork is so good it’s dangerously easy to keep coming back.”

Favourite regional restaurant

“Chauncy. Every meal leaves me inspired.”

Bucket-list spot

“Wing in Hong Kong, Lysée in New York and Loulouca in Singapore. I’m drawn to places that remind you how extraordinary simple ingredients can be. The way they take humble ingredients into an artistic form of their own culture and food language – that’s the kind of cooking I aspire to.”