Where Chefs Eat: The Chilli Cheese Twist Hugh Allen Loves

At 30, Hugh Allen is already one of Australia’s most accomplished chefs. Allen began his career at 16 as an apprentice at Rockpool, moved to Vue De Monde two years later and, after a stint in Europe that saw him at Noma for three years, returned to Melbourne in October 2018. In 2019, he took on the Vue de Monde executive chef role. But this spring, he’ll open his first restaurant. The ambitious Yiaga will be in a once-derelict Fitzroy Gardens pavilion, which is being redesigned by architect John Wardle. “I think in five years’ time I’ll be known for Yiaga, not Vue de Monde,” Allen told Broadsheet when the project was first announced in March.

We caught up with Allen to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Melbourne lately.

What’s your favourite bakery?
Right now, I’m most excited about Butter Days, which is about to open. It’s a project by my good friend John Demetrios. I’ve been lucky enough to see a lot of his R&D. The level of thought and care he’s putting into every item is incredible. It’s going to be something special – some nostalgic flavours with a refined execution. He’s also one of the loveliest guys in the industry.

What’s your go-to breakfast spot?
I keep breakfast pretty simple. If I’m in North Melbourne at my parents’ house, it’s hard to go past Small Batch for a great coffee and one of the cheese twists. It’s a buttery and flaky pastry with a bit of chilli; and it’s such a consistent, high-quality product. The cafe has a great North Melbourne feel to it – as I was born and bred in North Melbs – it feels like home.

Where do you take visitors when they’re in town?
I always recommend starting with the markets: Queen Vic, South Melbourne or Prahran. They’re full of amazing producers, small businesses and great spots to grab a snack or a coffee. The Royal Botanic Gardens is a must. I think it’s Melbourne’s most beautiful and peaceful public space. And the NGV is a must. I’d also suggest going to see a live concert, whether it’s a play or musical. We are a world leader in the arts.

What’s the best place for a drink and snacks?
Gimlet is a standout – even just sitting at the bar with a nice glass and some snacks, the atmosphere is great. Di Stasio Citta is another favourite, the snacks are excellent, and the team serves all-day, which is a rare and welcome thing in Melbourne.

Where do you go for special occasions?
Flower Drum is pretty iconic. Walking in feels like stepping into another era: the service is polished, the food is super tasty and comforting, and the whole experience is a timeless part of Melbourne’s fabric.

What Melbourne restaurant do you think is the most underrated?
It’s not exactly underrated by those who know it, but I think O My deserves even more national recognition. The team there – led by the two Bertoncello brothers – is doing incredibly thoughtful, produce-driven food. Their connection to their farm and seasonal cooking is the real deal, and there is this quiet authenticity in everything they do.

Where can you find the best bread in Melbourne?
Baker Bleu is doing phenomenal work. The consistency across the entire range of sourdoughs, ryes and seeded loaves is seriously impressive. Especially given the scale they’re operating at now. It’s artisan bread made with real attention to quality and craft, but delivered at a level that’s accessible to more people.

What’s your bucket list restaurant?
It would have to be Asador Etxebarri, just outside San Sebastian. Every chef I know who’s been there has raved about it. They’re true pioneers in woodfired cooking, not in a trendy way, but in a deeply authentic, technique-driven way. It’s all about simplicity, produce and fire. The restaurant has become a global icon.

Hugh Allen is guest chef on Masterchef Australia: Back to Win on Tuesday 22 July. Watch and stream free at 7.30pm on 10.