You’ve probably heard the name before. Nestled in Sydney’s 150-year-old GPO building in Martin Place was the first Latin-American fine diner by executive chef Alejandro Saravia. Unlike his other restaurants Farmer’s Daughters and Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters, which both have a produce-to-plate ethos, Morena was the first to celebrate the chef’s roots and influences. Morena has now been treating Sydenysiders to authentic Latin-American dishes and wines since early this year. So, without any hesitation - a second rendition surfaced.
Melbourne’s Morena is far from a copy; the restaurants are described as more like sisters than twins. And in Melbourne Morena is two separate venues. Morena Barra is the more relaxed day-to-early evening vision of the two, while the Morena Restaurant is a sit-down fine diner with an expansive menu. Both carry over the raw fittings and clean aesthetics of the original.
Only hours after the last fixtures were set in place, Access members were welcomed in for the first night of service. Guests walked off the bustling Little Collins Street into the Morena Barra, where pastel-coloured Morena Sours (the venue’s take on the Pisco Sour) floated amongst Access members. Rich and smokey flavours filled the air as ox tongue anticucho (a style in which the meat is coated with Latin-American chilli and spices) was grilled and served out as canapes.
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SIGN UPGuests were welcomed by the man of the hour, Alejandro Saravia, in a Q&A with Broadsheet’s Pascale Coade. His passion for Latin-American cuisine shone through as he talked about the influences and hurdles of his journey, both in and out of Melbourne’s diverse food scene. He even gave some ingredient insights, calling out one of our local favorites, Casa Iberica (be sure to shop here for Latin-Amercian staples).
Guests then moved next door to Morena Restaurant for a four-course feast big on flavour. Some features from night included cured Wagyu beef with dende oil atop a crunchy cassava crisp. And suckling lamb and heirloom potatoes - both charred to perfection. Ending the night were brown butter and almond cakes, artfully balancing a dollop of white chocolate yerba mate and lulo sorbet.
Many would call it a special Friday night - we call it a Friday done right. Either way, Morena is sure to find its fans here in Melbourne when it opens to the public.
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