In a Sea of Aussie Pubs, The Flying Fox Brings British Flair to Richmond

Pubs are a cornerstone of British hospitality. Like their Australian counterparts, they're neighbourhood institutions where regulars gather over a pint. But there are subtle differences. British pubs tend to be smaller, more intimate and built around familiarity.

That’s the approach owners Alex Back and Sophie Machin channel at their St Kilda pub The Lion & Wombat, and their new Bridge Road spot The Flying Fox.

“In the UK, there’s a pub on every corner,” says Back, who grew up in England before spending years working across bars, restaurants and pubs in both the UK and Australia. “Everyone knows your name, your drink. We wanted to create that feeling.”

The couple are well aware they’ve opened in one of Melbourne’s most pub-saturated suburbs, but they believe there’s still room for a different style of local. While many of Richmond’s pubs are sprawling affairs, The Flying Fox occupies an 1860s building that’s modest in size. The front bar is designed for casual walk-ins, while the upstairs dining room takes bookings. Together, the two levels seat just over 100 guests, plus another 15 to 20 outside.

The couple transformed the interior in just three months, adding wood panelling, leather banquettes, new lighting and carpet to warm the heritage space, plus a timber bar built by a local carpenter.

The menu takes cues from Britain, though the owners say it’s less bound by tradition than The Lion & Wombat, which has Scotch eggs and sticky toffee pudding. Executive chef for both The Lion & Wombat and The Flying Fox is Nathan Babos, formerly of Pt Leo Estate, who combines British pub staples with French and Spanish influences – a nod to the multicultural flavours that have shaped modern British cooking.

Early standouts include a Scotch egg wrapped in smoked ham hock, and Cumberland sausage (chopped pork sausage) served with a sour cherry ketchup inspired by HP Sauce. There’s also a Welsh rarebit doughnut that oozes molten cheese over caramelised onions reminiscent of Branston Pickle, the classic British sweet and spicy condiment. Tuesdays mean $28 steak night, Sundays are dedicated to roasts, and there’s a rotating monthly pie – currently chicken tikka with masala gravy, pickled baby turnips and tamarind chutney.

Naturally, beer is a core focus. Eight of the 12 taps are dedicated to independent breweries, alongside a mandatory pour of Guinness. Soon, The Flying Fox will also install a traditional cask hand pump, already popular at its sibling venue, allowing local breweries to pour British-style ales served at cellar temperature.

“Australians call it warm flat beer," Back says. “It sits at about 10 degrees. For me, it’s the perfect beer in winter”

The Flying Fox

396 Bridge Road, Richmond

Hours:

Mon to Thu midday–11pm

Fri & Sat midday to 1am

Sun midday to 10pm

theflyingfoxpub.com.au

@theflyingfoxpub