It’s been six years since Sydney chef Josh Niland released his James Beard Award-winning title The Whole Fish Cookbook. The book revolutionised the way we think about cuts of fish, encouraging chefs and consumers to go beyond the fillet. But in the past year, we’ve noticed more and more Melbourne chefs embracing two cuts in particular: fish collars and wings.

Collars are defined as the “neck” behind the gills, running along a fish’s clavicle. Wings come from below the collar and include fins. The cuts have long been staples of the city’s Asian restaurants, but they’re now much more ubiquitous.

At Hot-Listed Aru, you’ll find a kingfish collar with a dry native curry, orange kosho and burnt lime. Curtain House’s Mesa Verde serves a kingfish collar divorciado – inspired by the breakfast dish huevos divorciados – with fermented jalapeño, salsa roja, burnt lemon aioli and tostadas. Rocket Society fries up crisp barramundi wings with salt, baharat and house “toum-tare”. Obanzai Mama offers buri kama nitsuke, kingfish collar braised “grandmother style” in sake, soy sauce, mirin, sugar and ginger. And Taquito has a sweet ‘n’ sour collar with huitlacoche (a truffle-like Mexican delicacy) tacos.

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These cuts are also often used in specials, such as at Hot-Listed Reed House where chef Mark Hannell served a Kentucky-fried fish wing and hot sauce. “It uses what could otherwise be thrown away, has a nice gelatinous texture and is damn tasty,” Hannell tells Broadsheet of the KFC-riff that’s reflective of a broader culinary trend of fish wings being used to make spicy chicken wing-inspired dishes.

Fish wings have also been on Clara Luna’s menu since head chef Frankie Hadid launched it in January at Hot-Listed Jamsheed Urban Winery. First, there were deep-fried barramundi wings in 10 spices, crispy batter and tarator (a tahini, lemon and herb sauce). Now, an autumnal change brings chargrilled kingfish wings with warm tahini sauce.

For Hadid, the relatively inexpensive cuts were a beloved staple of their immigrant upbringing. “The current hype is probably a reflection of all the incredible first- and second-gen chefs leading kitchens around town,” they say. “As we speak there are aunties lining up at Preston Market fishmongers buying at least two kilograms of barramundi wings to feed the whole family.”

Hadid is finding little challenge winning over diners who are unfamiliar with the cut. “I get so much joy out of introducing guests who’ve never had them before and now are fish wing fans.”