Sushi On is a new eight-seat omakase diner for Kew, by chef JangYong Hyun.

The South Korean-born chef served in the army before moving to Japan to hone his sushi craft. He then moved to Melbourne, working at Komeyui and Kisume before striking out on his own, after 20 years in the industry.

For Hyun, the most important things for a sushi chef are skill, attitude and hygiene. “Throw away your pride; be humble. You have to show the guests your skill, but you have to be able to communicate and connect with them and make them happy,” he says.

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Sushi On has one sitting per night, when Hyun takes diners through 23 ever-changing, mostly one-bite courses for $190. You might start with an oyster, move onto nigiri, progress to maki, and finish the savoury journey with soup. Additional courses depend on market availability – they might be Kumamoto Wagyu nigiri or sea urchin gunkan.

Yong places a lot of importance on balance and selects fish with varying flavours, fattiness and textures, with some nights progressing through 18 different kinds of fish.

He works quickly and deftly right in front of you, shaping rice, expertly slicing fish, then lightly searing some pieces. The menu is 95 per cent seafood and the meal ends with a palate-cleansing sorbet or granita and then a small chocolate petit four.

Sushi On is all clean lines and light colours, with vertical wooden slats across the window for privacy. Eight plush velvet-backed bar stools sit up at the blond timber bar. And while the restaurant is in an unassuming strip of shops on the border of Kew and Canterbury, the location in no way hinders any bookings. Sushi On is fully booked through February, and you’ll have to be quick once reservations open for March. Stay up to date on Instagram.

Sushi On
1135 Burke Road, Kew

Tue to Sun 7pm–10pm