First Look: Semla in Seaford Has Buns and Honey Hazelnut Loaves From a Swedish Baker

Scandinavian baking is a little different to more familiar French patisseries and Italian bakeries like Melbourne’s beloved Lune, Monforte and Baker D Chirico,where butter and sweet toppings often reign supreme. In contrast, Nordic baking celebrates a nuanced appreciation for grains – wheat, barley, oats and rye – that have sustained people for centuries. As renowned chef and author of The Nordic Baking Book Magnus Nilsson writes, “Each grain has played a pivotal role across different parts of the region”.

Robin Ridell knows this well. Growing up in Karlskrona, Sweden, he was surrounded by stories of his great-grandparents’ bakery, Strandbadens Conditori, which operated out of their home on the small island of Salto over 75 years ago. “Just like their place became a social hub, we want to create something for our community. Get together, share stories, break bread (or buns),” Ridell tells Broadsheet.

In 2016, Ridell put aside a career in sports journalism to pursue a hands-on passion for baking. He went up north to the ski town of As, just outside of Ostersund, to study artisanal baking at cooking school Eldrimner, garnering Swedish techniques he would later hone during a two-year stint at Ovens Street in Brunswick.

In April this year, Ridell, along with his partner Georgia Hulse with whom he shares their 10-month-old baby, launched Semla the Bakery, operating out of their garage-turned-micro-bakery in the beachside suburb of Seaford.

Equipped with two Rofco ovens and a generous supply of flour from Wholegrain Milling, Ridell creates signature offerings such as vanilla buns, tosca buns (a Swedish-style sweet with pecan nuts and golden syrup), and a variety of loaves including porridge, sesame and his personal favourite, the 50/50 rye sourdough loaf. There are also honey hazelnut loaves and buns topped with caramelised pecan toffee.

The bakery’s name pays homage to a traditional Swedish bun filled with cream and topped with icing sugar. This sweet is often enjoyed during fika, a cherished Swedish tradition that celebrates breaks with coffee and sweets shared among friends and colleagues.

You can find Semla the Bakery at popular markets such as Redhill Market, Mornington Racecourse Market and Little Birdie Market in Mordialloc. For those who can’t make it to the markets, Semla offers delivery options between Edithvale and Mornington. Order cinnamon buns, cardamom buns and loaves – you can also get a sourdough subscription and a “surprise” subscription that provides a month-long supply of freshly baked bread delivered weekly.

Semla the Bakery will be at Little Birdie Market at 58 Governor Road, Mordialloc on Saturday August 17 from 10am to 2pm and at 5ifth Makers Market at Chelsea Bicentennial Park, Scotch Parade, Chelsea Heights on Saturday August 31 from 10am to 2pm.

www.semlathebakery.com
@semlathebakery