Sunghoon Kim started his baking career at classic Carlton North sourdough-specialty spot Natural Tucker back in 2005. It’s no surprise, then, that the chef’s own bakery, Publique, is best known for sourdough loaves, and even sourdough croissants.

In 2011, after six years spent training at bakeries around Melbourne, Kim opened Publique at the Preston Market. The store has a loyal following, and Kim says customers would ask “all the time” if he would open another venue. Last week, after years of requests, he finally did it – this time opposite the Queen Victoria Market.

When Broadsheet visits the new Publique outpost on a sunny Tuesday morning, the store, which is hidden down Blender Lane, is already buzzing. The bakery’s ceiling-high shelves are stacked with loaves, rolls and baguettes; the glass cabinet on the counter is filled with pastries; and people are lining up to get their hands on them.

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All items for sale here are made on-site (although Publique also has a healthy wholesale business, with more than 100 customers, based in Campbellfield). Favourites include danishes with fresh fruit sourced from market vendors, garlic croissants and Portuguese tarts. Bows – one of 2023’s biggest food trends – continue their reign over the industry this year. At Publique, Kim offers a pain de ruban, a laminated pastry filled with almond cream, topped with a raspberry finish, and folded to resemble a Minnie Mouse bow.

The chef, who moved to Australia from Korea in 2004, occasionally draws on his heritage to devise bakery specials. For opening, he created a special “pain bulgogi”: a croissant stuffed with sweet and salty Korean barbeque beef made from a Kim family recipe.

While he’ll continue to offer the odd unconventional item, Kim is adamant that Publique will remain a traditional boulangerie. “I didn’t want to go too trendy,” he says.

Now the second location is up and running, the team is getting ready to expand again, with a third location due to open on Victoria Street next month.

Publique Bakery CBD
18 Blender Lane, Melbourne
1300 241 671

Hours:
Daily 7.30am–3pm

https://publiquebakery.com.au/