First Look: Some of the Best Malaysian Food in Melbourne Is at Pappa Laksa Burwood

On the busy stretch of the Burwood Highway just by a McDonald’s and a golf shop is Pappa Laksa, an easy-to-miss gem that has quickly become a neighbourhood favourite. The Malaysian restaurant has stayed consistently busy since its grand opening last year with a launch event that included half-price laksa and garnered round-the-block lines.

Owner Niki Chan, whose family owns multiple laksa restaurants in Melbourne, gracefully manages the front of house, while her husband Jacky Chan is the master behind the wok. The family touch extends to their two young daughters, who chose the name Pappa Laksa and are often at the restaurant and have become part of the furniture.

At the core of Pappa Laksa's menu is its meticulously crafted laksa broth, which Niki says is “triple distilled to maximise purity and mouthfeel”. Cooked for between four and five hours using both chicken bones and chicken skin, it has a depth of flavour that sets it apart from other laksas found in Melbourne. While richness is the backbone to every bowl, Jacky brings freshness to the dish with vibrant toppings and pickled vegetables. The Chans welcome customisation, allowing patrons to choose vermicelli or Hokkien noodles (the default mix contains both), spice level and extra toppings according to their likes and dislikes.

Standout dishes include the beef rendang laksa, an unusual take where the restaurant's signature laksa base is mixed with Malaysian beef rendang that’s made using slow-cooked beef collar, and the king seafood laksa, crowned with a lightly fired barramundi fillet.

Laksa aside, the homemade prawn and fish spring rolls are a delightful starter. The char kway teow, a Malaysian stir-fried noodle dish brimming with wok hei, arrives piping hot in a large shallow bowl, topped with Niki’s special blend of crisp minced garlic, prawn and pork fat. Pappa Laksa doesn't shy away from reimagining classics, offering a unique spin on claypot noodles made with pork fillet instead of the typical chicken.

Niki proudly mentions its signature drink, cendol. A popular Malaysian dessert, cendol typically comes with crushed ice, but here it’s made with cubed ice, a medley of jellies and coconut milk.

The unfussy interiors are a testament to simplicity and allow the flavours of Pappa Laksa’s dishes to take centre stage. And the unassuming and welcoming ambience creates an ideal setting for savouring heartwarming bowls of laksa.

Pappa Laksa
26 Burwood Highway, Burwood
0499 360 240

Hours:
Tue to Sun 11am–3pm; 4.30pm–9pm