The sun is shining on leafy Dorcas Street as I approach Nine Yards, the newly minted South Melbourne spot from a team that between its members owns big cafe hitters Plain Sailing, Port of Call and Left Field.

Outside, punters sip iced lattes under bright yellow umbrellas, and through a door just to the right of the main entrance there’s already a line for the espresso bar, with its black granite counter, timber panelling and bags of Niccolo coffee beans on display.

Head through the main door of the heritage-fronted former stables though and find a space full of the colours and textures of the Australian landscape.

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The interior is by award-winning design firm Golden (Moby, The Penny Drop, Warrior One, Lenny), which has installed terracotta-pink columns, floor-to-ceiling eucalyptus-green cabinets, soft-grey tiled floors and a blackbutt timber island bench. Large windows let natural light into the 140-seat space, and you’ll find native flora all over the room.

“It was all about referencing that Australiana theme, but we wanted it to still feel comfortable, warm and casual,” Golden co-director Alicia McKimm tells Broadsheet. “We used a lot of natural textures that mimic the landscape. Everything is quite tactile but robust.”

There’s a lot to love about the details, too, from the custom-printed banquettes (gum leaves, acacia blossoms and Blue Devil flowers on bright yellow fabric by designer Louise Jones) to the tiny brass animals that function as cabinet joinery.

Nine Yards is by co-owners Steve Rowley and Matt Vero (Left Field, Plain Sailing, Port of Call, Tall Timber, Coin Laundry and Touchwood); Kerrie Townley (Left Field, Plain Sailing, Port of Call); Kenny Oliver (Port of Call); and Lydia Hean, former head chef at Plain Sailing.

Through a small window at the back of the dining room you can peek into the kitchen and see Hean at work executing a menu peppered with native Australian ingredients and local produce.

“They’re sprinkled throughout the menu to start off with, and I reckon later on we’ll get a bit more adventurous with our specials,” Hean says. “A lot of people I’ve spoken to didn’t know a lot of native ingredients, so sharing that knowledge has been fun.”

Hean’s cooking has two distinct styles: one indulges the sweet tooth, and the other creates nourishing, healthy meals. Both are highlighted in her breakfast board. On one side there’s quinoa toast topped with Vegemite, avocado, feta and a poached egg, and on the other is a bowl of muesli with yoghurt panna cotta, a handful of berries, some honey labneh and strawberry gum syrup.

An Aussie take on French toast comes with Milo mascarpone, an Anzac biscuit crumble, fresh banana and torched marshmallows. And a breakfast salad combines avocado, haloumi, poached eggs, macadamia pesto and lemon myrtle dukkah with a sprinkling of nuts and seeds.

Kakadu plum makes an appearance in both the kombucha-soaked Bircher and the smoothie bowl. And pepper-berry salt shows up in a dish of Northern Territory barramundi with green caper aioli and sweet potato, and alongside the fried chicken brioche burger, where it’s dusted over house-made potato chips. There’s even damper, served with butter and bush honey.

Back at the espresso bar, choose from a house blend by Niccolo and single origin from Ona, served in either eucalyptus or terracotta-coloured cups. Hot chocolate comes from Mörk, organic tea is from Calmer Sutra, and there are juices, kombuchas and smoothies.

The espresso bar also sells muffins, cakes from Little Bertha, pastries and bread from Rustica, and salads and sandwiches to go.

Nine Yards
228–230 Dorcas Street, South Melbourne
(03) 8676 7820

Hours:
Monday to Friday 7am–4.30pm
Saturday to Sunday 7.30am–4pm

nineyardseatery.com.au

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on November 4, 2019. Menu items may have changed since publication.