Since opening in a quiet pocket of Malvern in 2019, Angus Brettingham-Moore’s wine bar Essie has become a local favourite. It now has a sibling, Lulu, which opened last night in a former cafe a few doors down on Station Street.

For Lulu, Brettingham-Moore, who previously worked at David Moyle’s Franklin in Hobart and wine-centric Melbourne venues The Alps, Toorak Cellars, Milton Wine Shop and The Hills, drew inspiration from London’s dining culture.

“It’s a bit of a nod to that neighbourhood scene over there,” he tells Broadsheet. “Each little suburb has its own pockets and there’s so much character in all of them.

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“You go down little streets in London and there are little bars and cafes that are full of character, and I feel like Melbourne has a lot of that, too” he says, noting that it’s more the character and the spirit that he’s trying to capture rather than a specific venue.

Former Tiamo chef Rob Bramante’s menu heroes stone-based pizzas and house-made pastas. The dishes will change, but at opening there’s pappardelle served with a choice of beef ragu or white wine and mushroom ragu, and spanner crab linguine laced with lobster bisque and brandy.

Pizzas are pared back with toppings including ham, mushroom and olive, and mortadella, pistachio and buffalo mozzarella. Small plates include Fremantle octopus with parsnip puree and ’nduja crumb, and stracciatella with burnt fig and basil oil. Simple desserts are tiramisu and meringue served with lemon curd.

Brettingham-Moore says that like with Essie, his approach for Lulu was to create a relaxed, unpretentious venue designed with locals in mind.

Interior designer Alexandra Cerny of By Cerny helped bring that vision to life with a burgundy-washed fit-out, American oak furnishing and textured walls. There’s mostly leather banquette seating, but there’s also a custom curved steel bar where guests can pull up for a cocktail or glass of wine.

While Essie features bottles from many places, Lulu champions Italian varietals produced in Australia and Italy. What links the two offerings is Brettingham-Moore’s passion for sustainability and the stories behind the producers.

“Everyone talks about organics and biodynamics but our products have always been [built on] a sustainability pathway and one that speaks to where they’re from and who makes them,” he says.

It’s a calm restaurant that feels worlds away from the busy strip of Glenferrie Road that Station Street turns into. Ultimately, “the focus is good food, a warm atmosphere and welcoming service”.

Lulu
11 Station Street, Malvern
No phone

Hours:
Wed to Thurs 5pm–late
Fri to Sun midday–late

lulumalvern.com.au