In August this year, the team behind Belleville gave themselves just four days to overhaul the Parisian-inspired eatery. Tradies worked shifts to keep the construction running an impressive – but likely unsustainable – 22 hours a day.

“I now understand a lot more why people cry on the The Block,” says venue manager David Jamieson.

The resulting physical changes are minor: the bar has been replaced; there’s a new, raised stage; and – in anticipation of an increased live music offering – more carpeting and wood panelling has been added throughout to reduce noise.

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“The last bar was almost a bit clubby – high volume, pump drinks out,” says executive chef Jarrod Moore. Its replacement invites guests to take a seat, and strike up a conversation with the bartender.

The cocktail program has been stepped up too. The Pisco Disco
 is Encanto pisco (distilled in Peru) with pineapple-cardamom syrup and fresh lime. Italian vermouth, blood-orange syrup and sparkling shiraz make up the Velvet Spritz. There are plans to introduce house-made tonics and bottled cocktails soon.

The elements that made Belleville’s laid-back dining menu so attractive in its first incarnation remain: roast Bannockburn chicken with miso butter; the cultishly popular vegan fried “chicken” with chipotle vegan “aioli”; and poutine – chips with melted cheese curds, gravy and hot sauce.

The old, carnivore-friendly fried chicken, which Broadsheet named one of the best in Melbourne survived the revamp – with some adjustments. It’s still marinated with kaffir lime, but now it’s served with ranch dressing instead of jungle curry hot sauce and pickled watermelon.

Alongside these mainstays now sit more refined dishes. There’s blood orange with burrata and shaved chicken; Gippsland rabbit and chorizo croquettes with smoked carrot aioli; raw kingfish with pistachio; and sourdough with smoked tallow butter.

Moore says the shift was motivated by “talking to our suppliers and letting them tell us what’s good produce-wise.”

“Rather than being just the beer and chicken and chips place,” Jamieson adds.

The new wine list is roughly 90 per cent local, with the remainder coming from Tasmania and France – a nod to Belleville’s Parisian origins. There’s an extensive spirits list too, and a fairly even mix of local and imported beer.

Belleville
Globe Alley, Melbourne
(03) 9663 4041

Hours:
Fri & Sat 12pm–1am
Sun to Thu 12pm–11am

belleville-melbourne.com

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on September 3, 2018. Menu items may have changed since publication.