In Sri Lanka, “maalu maalu” is a phrase commonly shouted by fishmongers to attract potential customers. And although it’s also the name of Brunswick’s new Sri Lankan eatery, the crowd that’s gathered there on a Tuesday night indicates there’s no need for hawking.

It’s chock-a-block – and it’s clear the food speaks for itself.

“We didn’t expect this response,” Minuri Adams tells Broadsheet. She owns the restaurant with her husband Matt Adams. “We just started, but so far it’s really good.”

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The couple took over the Sydney Road site last November and ran it as an Italian diner for a few months (at the previous owner’s request) before flipping to an all-you-can-eat Sri Lankan offering, with the guidance of Minuri’s parents, who own Chef Lanka in Glenroy.

“My mum said she would help us with the cooking,” says Minuri. “She was like, ‘Let's just do what we know best’.” Eventually Matt, a long-time cook, will take over the kitchen duties, but for now it’s a whole-family affair.

For $20 a head, you can pile your plate high with steamed or stir-fried rice and noodles, dal, sambol and a rainbow of curries – think silky slivers of beetroot, whole boiled eggs swimming in spiced coconut milk, and cashews simmered until tender. The buffet is mostly gluten-free and vegetarian, though there are always a few meat dishes on rotation.

From Friday to Sunday, get unlimited hoppers for $5 extra. The thin, bowl-shaped pancakes are prepared to order, with or without egg, by someone brought in from Chef Lanka. “They make it right at the front,” says Minuri. “It’s basically straight from the pan to the plate.”

Drinks include mango lassi and coconut toddy, a low-ABV sparkling beverage made from fermented coconut sap. In the future, Minuri and Matt plan to add a small selection of cocktails and spirits including arrack, a popular Sri Lankan liquor also made from coconut.

Maalu Maalu
246 Sydney Road, Brunswick
(03) 9380 6311

Hours:
Tue 5pm–9pm
Wed to Sun 11am–3pm, 5pm–9pm

maalumaalubrunswick.com