There’s a lot going on in Aussie beer at the moment. But despite all the closures, creative new breweries continue to open.

Subculture Brewing Company in Brunswick is the latest to enter the fray. Founder Luke Forster, a long-time home-brewer and self-described “burnt-out medical scientist”, opened the bar on Sydney Road in August.

With medical services under so much pressure during the pandemic, Forster decompressed by completing brewing certifications and dreaming of a welcoming neighbourhood bar that brews its own beer.

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He then left medical science behind, took over the lease of a former restaurant on Sydney Road’s rapidly developing northern end, and opened Subculture Brewing.

“This is less stress – mostly,” Forster tells Broadsheet.

The fit-out reflects Forster’s love of music subcultures. Posters of punk, reggae, northern soul and roots bands line the walls, and you can hear albums on vinyl behind the bar.

The venue name also references the “subculturing” of yeast and Forster’s passion for brewing. You can sit next to the newly installed brewery kit towards the back of the venue, and sip beers while playing free games of ’90s classic Street Fighter II on the arcade cabinet.

“We want to be a neighbourhood bar that sells its own beer – that’s the idea – as opposed to a bigger brewery with a massive venue,” says Forster.

Regulars will eventually be treated to a changing list of core range and limited-release beers brewed on-site.

A lager brewed down the road from the venue is currently on pour, while Subculture’s own pale ale, hazy pale, IPA and version of kolsch will run through the taps when ready.

Until then, expect guest beers from local favourites Bodriggy, Stomping Ground, Holgate and Kaiju, and a smart list of Victorian wines. The spirits are hyperlocal, with Coburg’s Cedar Fox Gin and The Gospel Whiskey featuring prominently in mixed drinks and cocktails.

Food can be brought into the venue, with many favouring pizzeria Madonna Electric a couple doors down. An in-house “pie and pint” option is also available to get you through the afternoon.

When the brewery becomes fully operational, a takeaway members club will keep locals stocked up with growlers of Subculture’s finest. Keep an eye out for music nights and events over the coming months, as well.

Subculture Brewing
841 Sydney Road, Brunswick
0423 920 710

Hours:
Thur & Fri 4pm–11pm
Sat midday–11pm
subculturebrewing.com.au