The Greville is a restaurant, bar and nightclub clearly designed with a particular market in mind. If you want a quiet drink or dinner then maybe head elsewhere, but if you want a glitzy night partying with cocktails and bubbles, then this for you. Co-owner Bree Sherren says The Greville is built for her and her friends’ ideal night out.

“We love being out with friends, we love music, and we hate being kicked out of a restaurant. The brief to the staff is when 10 o’clock comes the music gets raised a little bit,” Sherren says. “We want people to start moving their shoulders in their seats.”

The restaurant upstairs used to be nightclub Boutique, owned by Darren “Razzle” Thornburgh, who passed away soon after its closure in 2017. Now the entire venue is owned by bar-generating behemoth JBS Hospitality.

On the lower levels is the restaurant, where large photos of glamorous models in fancy dresses – many of them lovingly stroking a large brass “G” (the venue logo) – are dotted around the space. They were taken at the venue’s interior designer Vicky Zaparas’s house. Throughout the room, dusky-pink dominates, a colour chosen to emulate the salt flats and buildings of the Mediterranean and South of France. What’s not pink is emerald, gold or marble. The bar next door, named the Champagne Room, has the same pink on its velvet walls, but it’s softened by hardwood floors and large windows looking out onto Greville Street and Grattan Gardens. The music is just as loud here and the tables are low (Sherren suggests they’re the perfect height for dancing on).

In the kitchen, head chef Casey Norman (Trailer Made) is putting out a mix of Japanese and European-inspired share plates, where glazed edamame, and kingfish sashimi with pickled fennel and puffed rice sit next to grilled calamari with smoked ricotta, and black risotto with King George whiting.

Cocktails are by bartender Alan Coop. Summer Nights is Four Pillars gin, blood orange, ginger and Sambuca; and the bright, easy-going Basil Rolling is basil-infused vodka, elderflower, lime and soda. Cooper’s signature is a mezcal Old Fashioned, on the menu as Smoke & Mirrors. It’s made with mezcal, Scotch, honey and bitters. Champagne is also a focus, with Dom Perignon bottles displayed on the bar, poured by-the-glass for $49 (there are lower-priced pours of French bubbly, too). Six reds, two rosés and five whites are available by the glass or bottle, most are local or from across the Tasman. The only beer on tap is Stella, but a Pirate Life IPA in the fridge will scratch any crafty itch for those that way inclined.

The Greville won’t be everyone’s cup of tea (or should that be “glass of bubbles”?) but it is obvious what the target audience is. For every person who baulks at the idea of the music being turned up in a restaurant at 10pm, there are probably just as many who love the idea. If that’s you, then you’ll love The Greville.

The Greville
132–134 Greville Street, Prahran
(03) 9070 3980

Wed & Thu 5pm–11pm
Fri to Sun 12pm–late

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on December 6, 2018. Menu items may have changed since publication.