It’s an unseasonably warm and sunny May morning when Broadsheet visits Darling Group’s new Royal Botanic Gardens venue, The Observatory. The European-style eatery and events space – in what was Shannon Bennett’s Jardin Tan – is flooded with golden morning light.
“It’s very opposite to what it was beforehand,” says Darling Group (Top Paddock, Higher Ground, Token) CEO Nick Seoud. “We wanted to make it light, vibrant and inviting. Somewhere you don’t have to feel like you need to dress up to come in.”
The Observatory is the group’s second venue in the gardens, following its reopening of The Terrace at the end of 2022. There’s space for 150 guests indoors, plus another 200 seats across its front terrace and back courtyard. Take a seat and order from the produce-driven menu that combines Mediterranean flavours with Melbourne brunch favourites. The menu is the work of Ashly Hicks and Chris Mitchell, Darling Group’s culinary director and executive chef, respectively.
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SIGN UPStandouts from the all-day breakfast menu include pastries from the group’s Cheri and the Observatory Plate – a mini spread of shaved ham with a soft egg, avocado, hummus, beets, Bay of Fires cheese and a generous slice of toasted focaccia from Cheri. From 10am, there are also share plates and salads, as well as pastas including the slow-roasted lamb ragu, and grilled mains including the porterhouse steak and barbeque grilled Dory with ajo blanco and cucumber.
Seventy-two-hour fermented Neapolitan-style pizzas are made with flour from Laucke Mills and fired-to-order in the massive Marana Forni oven. Toppings range from a classic margherita to bolder choices like the “Spicy Carnivore”, loaded with ’nduja, ghost pepper salami and Italian sausage. The drinks menu also expands in the afternoon, with a selection of wines and spritzes.
Clear glazing across three sides of the venue offers scenic views of the plaza, gardens and neighbouring Melbourne Observatory – the landmark that inspired the venue’s name and many of its design elements. Plaster panels are etched with the parallax method (used to measure planetary distance) and terrazzo floors have tiles that depict constellation charts. The rest of the interiors blend timber, stone and stainless steel in soft shades of grey and white, enhancing the light, spacious feel and staying neutral enough that the space is adaptable for events.
Guests can order takeaway pizza to enjoy in the gardens. And soon, the kiosk in the front plaza will have a grab-and-go menu of pizzas, wraps, pastries, salads and gelato.
The Observatory
Royal Botanic Gardens, 100 Birdwood Avenue, Melbourne
9948 4991
Hours:
Daily 8am–5pm