“A lot of people who know pasta all’amatriciana don’t really know what the name means or where it comes from,” Dave Parker (Robata, San Telmo) tells Broadsheet. “I love things that bring us back to a sense of place.”

His latest venue is Caffe Amatrice, a new cafe and a counterpoint to soon-to-open rooftop restaurant Amatrice, tucked away in the back streets of Cremorne and co-owned with Alex and Kelly Brawn of Sebastian. Both are named after the small mountain town north of Rome, and were designed by Brahman Perera (Hopper Joint, Entrecote).

Continuing the Italian theme, the ground-floor cafe is inspired by Milan’s train stations. Canary-yellow subway tiles, green marble tables, floors laid with small terracotta tiles and hand-blown glass pendant lights are used to evoke the subtle luxury of Milan. “We wanted it to feel fun and casual, but still embody the Italian spirit,” says Parker of the space.

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The all-day menu includes pasta salad, Baked for Sofia pastries, and house-made focaccias stuffed with the likes of eggplant parm and porchetta. Hotplates from head chef Dean Little (ex-Half Acre, ex-Cumulus Inc) include cacio e pepe, a truffled mushroom frittata, and stracciatella with smoked salmon, cucumbers and a boiled eggs on rye. Naturally, there will also be traditional-style pasta all’amatriciana with tomato, guancale and pecorino romano.

When the restaurant opens, it will celebrate maccheroncini di campofilone IGP – an extremely thin, finely cut pasta made with whole eggs, for which Parker secured a licence to import to Australia.

“We always knew the cafe would play a supporting role to the rooftop,” Parker says. “But it’ll still show off some of the pasta dishes and ingredients from upstairs.”

While the pasta comes straight from Italy, other cafe offerings are hyperlocal. Coffee is sourced just down the road from Niccolo, and is available in all the usual styles and as a coffee granita topped with mascarpone and whipped cream. There will also be Italian wines and beers once the liquor licence is approved.

Caffe Amatrice
16 Stephenson St, Cremorne

Hours:
Mon to Fri 7.30am–3.30pm

amatrice.com.au