“It’s still a barbeque joint, still smells like barbeque,” says Mike Patrick, one quarter of Fancy Hank’s, about its move into a double-storey, Art Deco building in the CBD. “We just thought it was time to actually get fancy.”

Patrick, together with partners Kent Bell, Daragh Kan and Myles Munro, opened the new Fancy Hank’s on Bourke Street last Friday. Like its original Mercat Cross location, it’s still “fun and loud, and you still order meat by weight on platters,” says Patrick. “But now we do full table service, and we have a wine list.”

There’s a new snack menu, too. It focuses on old-school American cold cuts such as boudin sausage; maple-glazed belly ham and red-eye mayo; and a baloney sandwich with banana ketchup. Sides are “more refined” here – dishes such as corn bread with jalapeno butter; pit-roasted rutabaga (swede); and salad with blue-cheese dressing and onion jam.

Beef brisket, pulled pork, buttermilk-brined chicken and sausages are smoked in Puffing Billie – the five-metre-long, two-and-a-half-tonne, custom-built offset smoker that sits in the dining room.

And there are desserts – a pie of the day; or smoked-sweet-potato casserole with house-made marshmallows.

There’s a wine list of 30-odd bottles (a first for Fancy Hank’s) that’s largely natural and local, including two on tap it made in collaboration with Quealy Winemakers in Mornington. There are 12 craft beers on tap, and what Patrick describes as a “pretty sedate, manly cocktail list”.

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The rooftop bar, Good Heavens, was due to open this week but has been delayed due to the weather. It’s expected to open in around two weeks. When it does, it’ll have 18 beers on tap and some fun, rooftop-friendly cocktails.

Fancy Hanks
Level 1, 79 Bourke Street, Melbourne

Daily, 12pm–11pm