Steak frites. Steak and fries. Steak and chips. However you want to say it, it’s a classic with an appeal that transcends the vagaries of season, fashion and geography. And if you’ve ever had it the way it’s done in Paris, you’ll know what we mean.
Restaurateur Jason M Jones (The Stables of Como, Friends of Mine) says he became a dead-set sucker for the iconic French dish after first dining at Paris institution, L'Entrecôte Porte-Maillot 10 years ago.
At his new two-storey South Yarra bistro Entrecôte, which opened today, the inspiration is unapologetic and the brief is simple: high-quality grilled Porterhouse steak, vinaigrette-laced green salad and bottomless fries. Naturellement.
When Jones and business partner Adam North (of premium beef producer Hopkins River Beef) took over the somewhat notorious Domain Road space in 2014 (The Millswyn and Louie suffered untimely deaths here), all signs pointed to Paris and back to the building’s roots; for 30-plus years it was home to French-inspired fine-dining establishment, Lynch’s.
“It’s an old institution,” says Jones. “We really want to recreate that and bring back a sense of community to the area.” He adds that there will, thankfully, be none of the stuffiness associated with such a grandiose title. “We want it to be really approachable – a classic neighbourhood bistro.”
Designed in collaboration by Jones and David Flack of Flack Studio, the interior treatment pays playful homage to ‘80s-excess-era Lynch’s, with vintage light fittings, potted palms and burgundy velvet banquettes all being featured.
Available from 7am until 3pm (tick), there’s a breakfast menu comprising solid cafe classics – pastries, eggs, omelettes, bircher muesli – while from midday to midnight the steak frites menu kicks in. And yes, you did read correctly, in keeping with French tradition the fries are indeed topped-up on request (tick, tick, tick).
And the love doesn’t end there; there’s a daily happy hour from 4pm–6pm, which includes $2 oysters and $12 glasses of Mumm champagne. And for all those post-Tan latte lovers, the little takeaway window on Millswyn Street offers $3 coffees all day, every day, too.
“It’ll be the kind of place where you can come in for coffee and a croissant on your way to work and come back later the same day for steak and a glass of wine,” says Jones.
Entrecote are now hiring. Find out more on Scout, Broadsheet's new employment website.
133 Domain Road, South Yarra
(03) 9804 5468