There's no cash register at All Day Donuts, Brunswick's latest oasis for sweet-tooths. Ditto for menus, plates, and everything usually found at a cafe. It's basic, but it's a definite step up from the lines-around-the-block at Flour Market, the last place you could get doughnuts by Raph Rashid (Beatbox Kitchen, Taco Truck).
Now, there’s no danger of running out. A windowed kitchen run by pastry chef Karina Leddin pumps out five varieties of fresh doughnut in a space designed with the help of architect Emlyn Olaver. If these aren't the best you've ever tasted, you must have been to New York, or someplace else where the doughnuts are near transcendent. “The main focus is the dough,” Rashid says. “That's our only challenge – getting it super-perfect, because there's so many variables."
It's a good starting point, but weak knees also come courtesy of the icings and fillings. Last weekend there was lime brûlée, coffee passionfruit, rose creme and milkberry rubble. Next time there might be different varieties. What never changes, though, is the freshness. The kitchen-to-mouth time is usually less than 30 minutes.
Whether you eat in or out, orders are delivered in cardboard trays and paper bags. A potent filter coffee by Seven Seeds arrives in cardboard cups. It's all very informal, and more than a bit reminiscent of the convivial atmosphere commanded by Rashid's other four trucks, which can be glimpsed in the garage out back. There are plans to add a mobile version of All Day Donuts to the fleet. And to serve fried chicken at the store after dark.
"A lot of our food is rich,” Rashid concedes. “I mean, the rose creme doughnut; you're not going to have two of them. Well, you might, but it's a commitment." Hence, the average person might come in once a month, he reckons. He wants to be ready for them when they do: “Not, 'Sorry, we flipped it up because we were experimenting on some new shit.' I want to continue making the same food, reliably."
All Day Donuts
12 Edward Street, Brunswick
Fri to Sun 8am–3pm
Update: All Day Donuts is now open Sundays.