“Diverse, Dynamic, Bold”: A Chef Tells Us How Hotel Menus Reflect How Melbourne Dines Today

Hotel dining in Melbourne has undergone a quiet renaissance in recent years. With a renewed focus on local producers, creative execution and high-concept design, these venues are no longer just for travellers – they’re places for locals to gather, too.

Fern Bar & Dining, located inside Hotel Indigo Melbourne Little Collins in the CBD, is a perfect example. With a large mural by Australian artist Lisa King, framed custom silks and a sweeping spiral staircase that descends into the bar, it reflects the city’s creative pulse. Executive chef Darryl Hand set out to channel that same spirit through the food – creating a menu that captures modern Melbourne on a plate.

“What’s modern Melbourne dining? It’s diverse, dynamic and bold,” says Hand. “Different cultures intersect, ingredients shine, and chefs aren’t bound by tradition. Instead of single cuisines, there’s a blend shaped by diversity, produce and attitude. So that’s what we’ve got on the menu.”

Dishes draw inspiration from Europe, Asia and across Australia – all grounded in specific stories, personality, experimentation, local ingredients and partnerships within the neighbourhood.

The salmon, for instance, is cured in lychee-infused gin from Little Lon, a microdistillery just a few blocks away, and finished with fresh lychee, diced nashi pear, chilli and mint – a dish that nods to both Melbourne producers and the city’s proximity to Asia.

Other small plates might include prawn toast topped with Yarra Valley salmon caviar and gochujang aioli, or chicken liver pâté and pinot gel sandwiched between delicate house-made crackers shaped like tiny chickens.

The signature dish is a dry-aged Aylesbury duck. The breast gets lacquered in honey, orange and star anise while the legs are transformed into tender croquettes, offering contrast in texture and flavour.

For a touch of nostalgia, there’s a pie from Coburg-based Wonder Pies served with Paris mash, peas and speck. “At the turn of the century, there was a pie shop [on this site] that used to make Scotch pies, so this is a homage to that,” Hand says.

Dessert takes cues from Melbourne’s street art and coffee culture. The Graffiti Brick – a coffee financier with white coffee cream, yuzu jam and chocolate – is shaped like a brick wall, with four different coloured coulis splattered across the plate like paint. The collaboration with Little Lon also continues with spirits curated to complement each plate.

In the dining room, a large benchtop table serves as a stage, of sorts, where chefs finish and plate dishes in full view of guests.

“We do it as live theatre,” Hand says. “We’ll bring the slicer out here and the chefs will prepare all the entrees here.”

That sense of interactivity will evolve over time, with plans for chef’s table dinners, summer barbecues and high tea in the private outdoor courtyard, Fern’s Garden. Both the courtyard and Fern Bar & Dining are available for hire for private events.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Hotel Indigo Melbourne Little Collins. Fern Bar & Dining is open daily. Breakfast runs Monday to Friday (6.30am–10.30am), and Saturday to Sunday (7.00am–11.00am); lunch is from 12.00nn–2.00pm, and dinner is 5.30pm–10.00pm. Book here.