Since Thomastown cheese factory and shop That’s Amore launched its Cannoleria offshoot in 2019, the most constant request has been for gluten-free cannoli.

Cannoleria usually pipes sweet ricotta into delicate tubes of golden, fried – and glutinous – pastry.

“But [for coeliacs] a lot of times we put the filling in a box without any shells and they have to just eat it with a spoon,” says co-owner Dario Di Clerico. “It’s very, very sad.”

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So the maker of some of Melbourne’s most coveted cannoli set about turning those frowns upside down.

Over six months, Di Clerico perfected a recipe for coeliac-friendly cannoli shells made from gluten-free flour, butter and white wine. And he says the end product almost exactly matches the lightness and crunchiness of a regular shell. “If they were too different, I would just keep trying until I got it right.”

There are currently two fillings available, both made with That’s Amore’s house-made ricotta: the Sicilian (with cinnamon and sugar) and the chocolate (with cacao and sugar).

If you trust yourself with a piping bag, you can also pick up a DIY gluten-free cannoli kit – also a new addition – which comes with six large shells, your choice of either filling, and crushed pistachios and icing sugar for the finishing touch.

The gluten-free cannoli ($6) and DIY kits ($30) are available for pick-up or delivery within 15 kilometres of Cannoleria’s locations at South Melbourne Market, Preston Market, Watergardens Shopping Centre and Malvern Central, and That’s Amore’s Thomastown store. Order online.