Former Beatrix Baker Opens New Cafe Brunswick Eats

After spending two decades helping shape some of Melbourne’s best bakeries and cafes, Zoe Pearce is finally doing things her way. Over her career, Pearce has worn many hats: baking manager at Beatrix, part of the opening team at Baker of Things, and head chef at cafes Hardware Societe and Ora. But Brunswick Eats on Nicholson Street is her first venue as owner.

“I’ve always worked super hard for everyone else and given my 100 per cent to everyone else,” Pearce says. “I’m at that age now where I think I’m ready. I’ve got all the experience of working with different people, of doing different things, and I just wanted to give it a go before I couldn't do it anymore.”

A Brunswick local, Pearce spotted the “for lease” sign on the former Milkwood site while walking through the neighbourhood in May and immediately knew it was the one. “The whole space is like a beautiful old vintage house, which is completely my style,” she says.

Pearce and her partner Danny Catalfamo transformed the cafe themselves, sanding timber floors and tables, painting the walls and carefully selecting every colour, artwork and piece of decor. She describes the aesthetic as “granny chic” – a mix of lime green accents, peach and pink walls, vintage furniture, and a hand-painted floral mural by Preston artist Yuka Natori. Music plays through old speakers, and many of Milkwood’s original features, including the floors, wooden church pews and arched doorway, remain.

Though her work at Beatrix and Baker of Things means she’s best known for cakes and other baked goods, Pearce has always considered herself a savoury chef first. Opening Brunswick Eats has given her the freedom to be creative, starting with her colourful, produce-driven brunch menu. “It’s not just bacon and eggs, you can have more,” she says of the mid-morning meal that has become somewhat passé in Melbourne in recent years. 

Brunch here includes a smoky bacon and egg bun with bearnaise – a twist on eggs Benedict with a marinated bacon slab – and a scorched corn, manchego and jalapeno croquette served with punchy mojo verde and coriander dressing. 

Having her own venue gives Pearce flexibility. “If I don’t want to do something on the menu, I just won’t do it.” But baked goods still make an appearance. Brownies, chunky cookies, lemon tarts, bomboloni filled with banana milk custard and vegan cinnamon scrolls are all displayed in a vintage cake cabinet at the front of the venue. And Pearce’s strong reputation means customers have already put in requests for things such as her vanilla slice, which she’s added to the line-up since opening.

Ultimately, Pearce is excited to be the one steering the ship after a decades-long career in other people’s kitchens. “I’ve been cheffing in all these places and made them successful. I’ve created other people’s menus, created other people’s dishes. But I’m gonna do it for myself now.”

Brunswick Eats
120 Nicholson Street, Brunswick East
0423654294

Hours:

Mon to Fri 7am–2pm
Sat & Sun 8am–2pm

@brunswickeats3057