First Look: Take a Seat and Enjoy a Glass at Blackhearts & Sparrows’ New Fitzroy Store

Since launching in 2006, Blackhearts & Sparrows has been one of the best places in Melbourne to pick up a bottle of wine, learn about new producers and get nerdy with the vino experts on the floor. The wine retailer, from siblings Paul and Jessica Ghaie, now has a dozen stores in Victoria, and one each in Hobart and Canberra. But only one of them offers a space to relax and enjoy a glass or bottle off the shelf.

At the start of summer, the Ghaies opened a new Blackhearts store in the former Slowbeer space on Smith Street, about a 12-minute walk from the brand’s existing 10-year-old Smith Street store and across the road from Tom Sarafian’s Hot Listed Zareh.

“Because we’ve already got the shop at the other end of Smith Street, we’ve got to do something to differentiate,” Paul says. The siblings have taken advantage of the existing liquor licence and set the new shop up so people can stay for a drink or two and a snack.

“What we do best is retail, so it’s still going to be predominantly a retail space,” says Paul. But it’s also somewhat inspired by Parisian wine bars: “They do that wine bar, wine store thing really well.”

Paul is excited to keep adding to the public’s wine knowledge and to have more opportunities to showcase wines that customers can try without committing to buying a whole bottle. 

In addition to regular by-the-glass options such as 2024 Parco Gamay from South Australia and a 2024 Antonia Scala Greco Bianco from Italy (all currently priced under $20) there are limited pours, such as a 2019 Chateau Thieuley Generation Three Bordeaux Rouge for $19 a glass. “Being able to open them up and offer a glass will then hopefully translate to people just learning a little bit more about [different] styles and feeling confident when they walk into a wine store or a wine bar or restaurant,” he says. 

You can also pick any bottle from the shelf to enjoy at the 10-person communal table. Snacks are easy things that the team can prepare behind the bar, such as tinned fish, cheese and charcuterie. But don’t walk in expecting a classic Melbourne wine bar. “It’s more of a wine store with the opportunity to hang out and have a quick glass or two and go about your day.” 

Blackhearts & Sparrows By The Glass
351 Smith Street, Fitzroy
03 9191 3500

Hours:
Tue to Thu midday–8pm
Fri & Sat midday–9pm
Sun midday–6pm

blackheartsandsparrows.com.au/stores/fitzroy-btg
@blackheartswine