Where Chefs Eat: Sogumm Chefs on the Best Sushi and Banh Mi in Melbourne

At Sogumm on Church Street in Cremorne, chef couple Changhoon “Kimi” Kim and Suhyun Kim turn out nourishing Korean food informed by their experience at some of the world’s top restaurants.

Kimi worked at Matt Moran’s Sydney restaurant Aria in 2018 before he left to spend a year living and learning under revered Buddhist nun and fermentation expert Jeong Kwan. There, Suhyun – whose resume includes Gimlet, Singapore’s two-Michelin-starred Restaurant André and Alain Ducasse’s Plaza Athénée in Paris – was also training. They moved to Melbourne in 2019 and opened Sogumm earlier this year.

We caught up with Kimi and Suhyun to find out where (and what) they’ve been eating lately.

What’s your favourite bakery?
Suhyun: Hung’s Bakery in Richmond. It has banh mi with baguettes baked fresh every day and filled with really fresh ingredients. I love that they spread plenty of pâté, and the owner’s kindness makes the place even more special.

Kimi: Lune. I love the smell of butter from the shop as soon as you walk in. From that aroma alone, you can tell the team is using really good butter.

Where can you find the best bread in Melbourne?
Kimi and Suhyun: Baker Bleu in Cremorne. We often go there to get sourdough and it’s consistently good.

What’s your go-to breakfast spot?
Kimi and Suhyun: Magnum Pi in Richmond. Early in the morning, on the way to work, we often stop there for coffee and pies. We love the chicken and bacon pie and the one with beef and mushrooms.

We also go to Hector’s Bakery in Richmond. The ham, cheese and tomato toastie is our favourite, and we can’t resist getting an original glazed donut, too.

Where do you take visitors?
Kimi and Suhyun: The South Melbourne Market is well-kept, full of fresh seafood, produce and specialty stalls, and always feels like one of the best places to show visitors.

What’s the best place for a drink and snacks?
Suhyun: Supernormal. The melon highball with the Korean rice cakes is an incredible pairing. I also love the duck bao.

Kimi: For a fun night out, Caretaker’s Cottage. I think it’s such a privilege to have one of the best bars in Melbourne so close by. My favourite drink I’ve had there was the Midori Splice – it was on the monthly menu and extremely memorable.

Where do you recommend for a date night?
Suhyun: Gimlet. If you want to spend a special evening, it’s the place. The food, the drinks, the room and even the service all come together in perfect harmony; it makes the whole experience feel truly joyful. I love starting with the classic Gimlet. Plus, the T-bone steak there is outstanding.

Kimi: Matsu. It’s where you can truly experience Japanese kaiseki, a style of dining that’s not easy to find in Melbourne. With every course, you can feel chef Han’s dedication and craft, which makes the evening really special.

Where do you go for Korean food?
Suhyun: There are so many fried chicken places in Melbourne, but I often order
from Chickorea. The soy chicken and sweet and chilli are our favourites.

Kimi: Tteokbokki is my childhood food, and I can eat it every day. Sinjeon K Street Food is a hugely popular franchise in Korea, and here it tastes exactly like back home. I like to order the cheese tteokbokki with a set of fried snacks and kimbap, then dip everything into the spicy sauce.

What’s the best place to eat when you’re with a big group?
Kimi and Suhyun: Korean barbeque is always the answer. You can choose all the meats you
want and put together a full feast at the table. We often go to BBQ King in Glen Waverley when we’re with a big group. The quality of the meat is excellent, and the side dishes and desserts are always good.

Where can you find your favourite dessert in Melbourne?
Suhyun: Madeleine de Proust. The taste is always satisfying, and every new madeleine feels like it comes with a story. It makes me curious and excited for what will come next.

Kimi: The Flour. The Mont Blanc dessert I had there was part of the seasonal menu, and it instantly reminded me of the ones I ate in Paris. It was delicate, balanced and so beautifully made. Chef April [Bae]’s dedication is truly remarkable. You can feel her craft and passion in every bite, and it makes the experience unforgettable.

What’s the best place to eat as a solo diner?
Suhyun: Uminono. The counter seating makes solo dining feel completely natural, and the
chirashi bowl at lunch shows just how simple and refined their food can be. They also
offer beautifully presented sushi boxes for takeaway.

What’s the best place for a late night feed?
Kimi and Suhyun: Supper Inn. This part of the city is a true hospo area. After a busy service, especially on a late Saturday night, we would head out with colleagues, and it became our go-to spot for a late meal.

Where would you go for a special occasion?
Kimi: I visited Brae about nine years ago, and that dining experience has stayed with me as an unforgettable memory. The signature snacks I had there – the iced oyster and the prawn with nasturtium, – are still among the most memorable dishes of my life. If I get the chance to go again, I’d love to take Su and share that same sense of wonder together.