Alta Trattoria Is Leaving Piedmont for Sicily

After more than two years focusing on Piedmont food and wine, Fitzroy’s Alta Trattoria is shifting its focus to Sicily. The change comes with the departure of chef McKay Wilday, who has led the kitchen since 2023 and is taking a step back from the industry.

The Nigella Lawson-approved restaurant will operate under McKay as Alta until Sunday August 31, before undergoing a light interior refresh and reopening as Cantina Moro on Friday September 5.

Key to the change is new head chef Matthew Matteo Tine, who worked with co-owner Carlo Grossi at Grossi Florentino, and most recently at Collingwood Mediterranean restaurant Orlo.

While the team considered keeping the focus on Piedmontese cuisine, co-owner James Tait says a shift to Sicilian cuisine made sense once Tine came on board. “That’s his style – this beautiful, vibrant Sicilian food,” says Tait. “It will be quite traditional, but obviously we are in Australia. So it will be Australia-meets-Sicily.”

The wine list will also showcase Sicilian wines as well as drops from other southern parts of Italy including Puglia and Calabria.

The team, which also includes co-owner Luke Drum (ex- Carlton Wine Room), will, in Tait’s words, “be bringing a bit more of Sicily to the room”.

Alta Trattoria will close after service on Sunday August 31 and reopen as Cantina Moro on Tuesday September 5.