Where Chefs Eat: Aitor Jeronimo Orive Loves This County Bakery’s Unconventional Pies

Aitor Jeronimo Orive knows what it takes to earn a Michelin star. The chef, who grew up between Melbourne and Southern Europe (primarily Basque country), was leading the kitchen at Iggy’s in Singapore when it gained its first star in 2017. The restaurant retained it in 2018, then he left to open Basque Kitchen by Aitor, also in Singapore, which earnt stars in 2018 through 2022 (with the exception of 2020, when no stars were awarded in the country). 

Orive moved back to Melbourne in 2024 and is currently running Basque Txoko, a pop-up at South Yarra bar Nobody’s Baby scheduled to end in July. There are Basque dishes such as Gildas, confit piquillo peppers and croquetas de jamon (Serrano ham bechamel croquettes). 

We caught up with Orive to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Melbourne since his return.

Favourite bakery
“Country Cob Bakery. I first went to the one in Kyneton whilst doing a pop-up. I go here not so much for the bread, but for the pie menu. The bakery is owned by two brothers, Chan and Ryan Khun, who are Cambodian, and they make some really fantastic Asian-inspired pies, often using seafood, which you don’t see all that often in Australia. They were awarded best pie in Australia over a number of years and the lobster laksa and chilli crab pies are definitely two not to be missed.”

Date night spot
“Amaru in Armadale has one of the most interesting tasting menus I’ve seen in Melbourne, using all native Australian ingredients. The way Clint McIver plays with textures, flavours and colours creates such a beautiful and sensory experience. The last time I went, we had glacéd quail which was definitely the standout dish. The dining room is small, intimate and elegant and the front-of-house team makes every visit feel so special – it’s the perfect place to impress a date.”

Favourite ice-cream or gelato spot
“Honestly, just wander up and down Lygon Street, and pick anywhere. It’s the home of Italian gelato in Melbourne, you can’t go wrong. In saying that, I think Pidapipo is great and, flavour-wise, I’ll always go for pistachio no matter where I am.”

Special occasion spot
“This might be contrary to what most people think about chefs on their days off, but I actually love cooking at home when I’m not in the kitchen for work. We’ll always mark an occasion with a long lunch or celebratory dinner for my wife or family at home, and I’ll make a big paella valenciana or seafood paella and some tapas or pintxos.”

Best place to eat with a big group?
“Movida Aqui in the CBD. Order some tapas or raciones (sharing dishes) to go around. I’d always go for their croquetas or any of their specials, and then follow it with a big paella for mains! Wash it down with a bottle of Viña Tondonia or Rioja Alta – white or red – depending on the type of paella.”

Best place to eat as a solo diner
“I’d head to The Lincoln in Carlton. Now that it’s getting cold, pull up a stool at the bar near the fireplace, and there is always someone lovely behind the bar happy to chat to you. Coming into winter, I’d probably tuck into the beef-and-red-wine pie and a pint of Carlton Draught.”

Best place for a late-night feed
“China Bar on Russell Street is great for Cantonese fare and stays open until 4am (although I’m well past the days of staying up until those hours). 

“Before coming back to Melbourne, I lived in Singapore for eight years, which has a huge Cantonese community and really great cuisine from street food to fine dining. I’d always love to get dumplings or Hong Kong-style barbeque for a quick fix after work, and China Bar takes me back to those days.”

Best bread
“I love dark-rye sourdough and the one from Baker Bleu is great. I’ll always have mine with smoked whipped butter and salt flakes.”

Best coffee
“I know this is criminal, but Melbourne coffee is actually too strong for my taste... so I tend to make coffee at home. However, I do like to use coffee grounds from Ona.”

Venue you’d most like to collaborate with
“I would love to collaborate with Dan Hunter at Brae. It would be such an honour, and we’ve both worked at Mugaritz, but at different times.”

Favourite regional restaurant
“Piper Street Wine Company in Kyneton. It’s owned by Brendan Lane, the winemaker behind Musk Lane from the Macedon ranges. They’re doing a menu with Frank Camorra at the moment, which is a traditional Spanish menu he’s called Bodega Sierra. Go and try it – it’s fantastic.”

Bucket-list restaurant
“I’d love to visit Single Thread in Sonoma County, California. Lucky for us, they are doing a pop-up in Sydney this August. I’m good friends with and really look up to Kyle and Katina [Connaughton]. They are amazing people and do an amazing job.”