Williamstown, founded as Port Harwood in 1835, was a real contender to become what’s now the CBD. After getting passed over, the small settlement was renamed William’s Town in 1837, with the same stroke of the pen that brought Melbourne into existence. The area’s rich history reflects this, with architecture harking back to the mid-1800s and pubs that have sustained locals for generations. But heritage alone isn’t enough to keep them all afloat.
“Williamstown used to be a thriving area for pubs, but a lot have shut down in the past 10 to 15 years,” publican Stephen Mitchell (who co-owns the excellent Bridge Hotel in Werribee) tells Broadsheet.
That was the fear for the Morning Star Hotel, an 1890-built pub clouded by rumours of redevelopment. So Mitchell, Matt Vero (Marquis of Lorne, Mount Erica Hotel, Orrong Hotel) and Williamstown local Aaron Onofretchook swooped in to save it.
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SIGN UPAfter a year’s break, the grand old pub is back with a fresh design from Melbourne-based Studio A Mi (Wally’s), blending mid-century pub nostalgia with coastal touches.
The main dining room’s original layout has been retained, but rattan flooring has replaced the old carpets, banquette seating is upholstered in corduroy and the ceiling is a golden shade of yellow. The front bar has been completely rebuilt with retro mosaic tiles and vintage lighting, while the expanded beer garden offers seating for 100, a children’s play area with a cubby house and sandpit, and a bar that’s nearly twice the size of the original.
Alongside staples like parmas and cheeseburgers, the menu features a pork tomahawk served with apple-ginger sauce and cabbage slaw; slow-roasted lamb shoulder with pearl couscous and yoghurt sauce; and a butcher’s cut for two that changes weekly. Salted snapper fritters and Scotch eggs with hot mustard and brown sauce are on hand to satisfy the inevitable cravings for drinking snacks.
On the topic of drinks, every tap in the Star is independent. The team can pour whatever it likes, for as little or as long as it likes, with none of the lock-in contracts demanded by the majors. The current roster includes Wolf of the Willows, Bodriggy and a house pilsner brewed at Stomping Ground. Wine is mostly Australian, with a few old-world bottles, and the cocktail list leans mostly classic.
There are also happy hour specials on Fridays from 4pm to 6pm. Think prosecco and oyster combos, $8 pints and two-for-one spritzes.
The Morning Star Hotel
3 Electra Street, Williamstown
(03) 9397 0069
Hours
Mon to Thu 3pm–11pm
Fri to Sun 12pm–late