Raphael Exton-Pery had worked just six days as a junior sous-chef at Andrew McConnell’s Gimlet before coronavirus hit. But the Melbourne chef fought off lockdown lethargy by sinking his teeth into a side hustle, opening a takeaway sandwich pop-up, Jollygood Sandwiches, at Fitzroy North’s Eddie Gardens-adjacent wine bar Underwood

These days, you’ll find Exton-Pery permanently installed next door to Brunswick Street craft-beer bar Near & Far, which means you can have a hard-to-find tinnie alongside your next-level sandwich. The Melbourne chef, whose CV also lists Clifton Hill wine bar Spensley’s and Carlton North’s Little Andorra, wants to help drum up a Melbourne sandwich “culture” – much like the ones we’ve developed around coffee and brunch. That means fresh, everyday sandwiches, as opposed to the occasional hefty options that can line you up for a sluggish afternoon.

On the menu, you’ll find a chicken sanga with citrus-herb mayo, cucumber and lettuce; a New York-inspired deli number with mortadella, Calabrese salami, peppers, Swiss cheese and mayo; and a cheese salad with farmhouse cheddar, beetroot and carrot pickle, alfalfa, citrus mayo and butter lettuce. The star of the show? A classic French dip, layered with prime roast beef, Swiss cheese, house mustard and a tub of gravy for dipping. Add pickles or a side of fries for an extra couple of bucks.

All sandwiches come served on ciabatta from Abbotsford’s Dench Bakers. Also on the menu: a German-style kransky currywurst with house curry ketchup and mayo, and jumbo pretzels.