When written in Japanese kanji (characters), "Shusai Mijo" suggests words like sake, colour, beauty and creation. At this eight-seat omakase, chef Jun Oya presents his own interpretation of these terms. Oya has thirty years under his belt as a dashi (Japanese soup stock) expert, including time at Warabi. Sous-chef Takuro Abe and certified sake sommelier Matthew Ng – both ex-Warabi – complete the team.

The main point of difference at Shusai Mijo is that Oya and Takuro prepare what they describe as a “kappo-style” omakase. Everything is decided by the chef, but the kappo (which means “to cut and to cook”) menu includes fewer sushi dishes than are typically found at restaurants like Richmond omakase fine-diner Minamishima. The setting is also less formal than Melbourne diners are used to at omakase spots, meaning you get to loosen your tie and let your hair down a bit while you dine.

The menu changes by season, or even by day. The sakizuke (appetiser) might be a salad of firefly squid, snow crab, scallops and pufferfish, on a bed of dashi jelly. Or, there could be the chawanmushi (steamed egg custard), served chilled with abalone, salmon roe and Japanese sour plums. The sushi course blends local and Japanese fish – think fresh slices of tuna belly or King George whiting, plus red meat like A5 Wagyu with caviar. Ng’s sake list is organised by characteristics – crisp, cool and cleansing; or wild, unabashed and driven.