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Chinoiserie is essentially a fantasy. The highly ornate, Asian-influenced art style, primarily associated with porcelain, furniture and other luxury objects, originated in the 17th century and is based around an invented image of what Europeans thought East Asia was like. At new Fitzroy pop-up restaurant Little Rose, chef Rosheen Kaul – a cookbook author and former head chef at Etta – takes this idea and applies it to a new context: food.

Everything is à la carte and the menu format of entrees, mains and desserts mimics that of a French bistro rather than a Chinese restaurant. For mains, there’s a take on andouillette, “one of the most controversial sausages in French regional cooking.” as Kaul describes it, made in collaboration with Meatsmith.

Joining Kaul is another of the city’s top culinary stars, Joe Jones, formerly of Romeo Lane and the excellent pop-up bar at Mecca’s Bourke Street flagship. Jones’s cocktail menu includes around nine monthly changing drinks plus a few weekly specials based on what’s in season.