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Gogyo is a sister restaurant to popular ramen chain Ippudo. Just like at Ippudo, Gogyo offers many different types of ramen. But the specialty here is the kogashi (burnt miso) ramen.
It’s made by setting fire to a miso paste in a wok on a high heat, before extinguishing the flaming base with chicken broth. The soup is then quickly topped with chashu (braised pork), cabbage and flavoured egg. The result is a striking and smoky bowl of noodles.
Beyond the ramen offering, other highlights include Wagyu beef sukiyaki (meat or vegetables simmered in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar and mirin) spring rolls with mayonnaise, and negitoro nigiri sushi (a style of sushi with the nori wrapped around the rice ball), which is made with tuna belly topped with truffle oil.
There are worthwhile options for those avoiding meat, too. The tofu salad with nashi pear, blue cheese, cabbage and a sesame dressing is a highlight. The vegie soba is also complex and satisfying.
For drinks, there’s a well-rounded cocktail list, with flavours leaning towards the zestier side of the spectrum. The rest of the list is fun and tight: the majority of wines are Australian, and they’re bolstered by a line-up of Japanese beers and sakes.
The front dining room is light filled, thanks to floor to ceiling windows. For something moodier and more intimate, opt for a seat at the bar in the second dining space, which is accessed through an indigo woven curtain.