Cutler is the most formal restaurant in the Andrew McConnell stable, which includes Gimlet, Cumulus Inc., Marion and Supernormal. That’s not saying much, though. Fine-dining restaurants are more casual than they’ve ever been, and this one is no exception.

The à la carte menu is arranged much the same as that at Cumulus. It opens with small, refined snacks such as oysters; anchovy and sage fritters; and a caviar tart.

Entrees and mains move onto proteins and fish paired with seasonal veggies and sides. If you’re with a crowd, there are monster steaks or suckling pig to share.

But if you want to really emphasise the “fine” dining aspect of Cutler (or just stretch your meal out) degustation is the way to go. It includes six courses, with optional matched wines (our preference) selected from the vast, progressive list.