There was a palpable buzz in the air – the end of the VAMFF week was nigh. The show began fashionably late and all eyes were on some of Australia’s most illustrious designers.
Not for the faint hearted. Neoprene made a return, alongside the appearance of a metallic, tinsel-like textile. Garments fitted softly around the models and voluminous, bell-shaped sleeves paired with matching flared pants are big contenders. Think Lara Bingle on the red carpet at this year’s AACTA awards (look it up). Or maybe ’70s disco.
In a word … Bold
Each individual piece was beautifully constructed but the collection lacked real flow. Perry steered away from floor-length gowns, opting for shorter, more playful cuts with touches of mesh, polka-dot fabrics and crocodile leather. He made it clear that pastels are no longer just for spring and summer, with hues of baby blue, dusty pink and lime making their way onto the runway.
In a word … Confusing
The most well-balanced collection of the evening. I’ll take one of everything. Sheepskin coats, capes, draped vests and tailored pants. It’s all about layering in one colour – grey, white or black. AG also proves that teamed up top-and-bottom, white-on-white can be trans-seasonal.
In a word … Smart
Yeojin Bae has a knack for creating the perfect balance between edgy and feminine. Intricately seamed pencil dresses with daring side splits were contrasted against structured blazers. A flounce of frill here and there, an exquisite rouge, lace dress and a pop of cobalt blue to finish things off. Nailed it.
In a word … Flawless
Beginning with a flowing Grecian-style gown and following suit with a fitted, over-the-knee, snake-skin print dress, this collection had it all. Bold loose leathers and structured tweed coats were set against dainty lace garments, bustiers and cinched waistlines. Subtle slits and sprinklings of sequins gave evening gowns a contemporary edge. A particular favourite was a monochromatic ballerina dress with a skirt made from the perfect mix of crepe and lace.
In a word … Busy
Sass & Bide
Sass & Bide’s collection saw perfectly fitting midi dresses and jackets in navy, white and black, adorned with signature brass-gold embellishment. A mustard dress with intricate red and black beading around the waist was the standout piece of the collection.
In a word … Same old
Pleats, pleats and more pleats. This collection showcased what Lui Hon is renowned for – structurally strong, textually complex cuts. Leather belts, necklines and pant legs provided a fierce, armoured look. Finally, some headwear! Hats – one a conical shape, the other ruffled in appearance and worn to one side. A strong Asian aesthetic was an influence throughout.
In a word … Hats
Expected? Ellery created something slightly wacky.
Unexpected? The return of pastels.
Highlight: Two words: Yeojin Bae. A force to be reckoned with.
Overheard … Onlooker: “I can’t get good shots when they’re walking so goddamn fast.” Models putting the run in runway.
Spotted…Manu taking five from MKR at VAMFF. Plus, the ever-so-cool Rachel Rutt strutting her stuff.
Stay tuned for Broadsheet’s coverage of VAMFF throughout the week.