For the past few years, skin-tight glamour dresses have ruled the runways of mainstream Australian designers. Form-fitting in lace or neoprene, it’s been a winning blueprint.
But at last night's VAMFF National Graduate Showcase, working with oversized shapes was a clear trend. So, too, were clashes of texture, brightly hued sportswear and conceptual menswear.
Stephanie Frig, UTS, NSW
Frig worked big coats with latticework details and bright colours, mixing up textures and injecting acid-bright hues.
In a word: eye-catching.
Ben Lalic, UTS, NSW
Lalic presented sportswear for men in shiny, metallic fabrics with cut-outs and a slightly ravey, ’90s feel.
In a word: techno.
James Greenway, Whitehouse Institute of Design, VIC
Greenway's label HARLEM featured leather micro-shorts, slim black pencil skirts matched with prim blouses, shiny pleated skirts and a lot of latex.
In a word: fetishistic.
Alexandra Lane, UTS, NSW
Primarily executed in white, Lane's designs featured 'detachable' pieces that can be mixed-and-matched. White ribbed pleats, oversized tunics, boxy jackets and origami-like coats all featured.
In a word: architectural.
Panayota Theodore, UTS, NSW
Theodore's deep indigo hues and frayed denim were given a slightly industrial feel with prominent press-stud details on tunics, skirts and strapless dresses that gave the body room to move.
In a word: indigo.
Rose Church, Curtin University, WA
Inspired by the idea of assemblage and twining, Church's unisex outfits, all in hospital whites, featured loose, hanging threads; gathering, dropped crotches; and frayed edges.
In a word: unhinged.
Anna Thora Lindell, RMIT, VIC
Origami pleats, woven dresses, high collars and scuba details: Lindell used recycled bike tubes to distort the bodycon ideal.
In a word: unconventional.
Lauren Elise Trend, RMIT, VIC
Raw edges and loose-hanging fabrics brought the pattern-cutting process to the fore, showing the inner workings of dressmaking.
In a word: thoughtful.
Alice Kennedy, RMIT, VIC
Kennedy showed voluminous wool jackets, peplum tunics, wide-legged pants and tiered dresses that drew attention to volume and silhouette.
In a word: accomplished.
Cherry Luk, UTS, NSW
One of the loveliest collections of the night, Luk's menswear featured draping, asymmetry, unisex garments and a surprising palette of peach, pastel blue, dove grey and khaki.
In a word: androgynous.
Hannah Kim, UTS, NSW
A standout, Kim's collection fused acid-rave colours, embroidery and embellishment in a fun cacophony of oversized coats, tutu skirts, baseball caps, feather earrings and shiny sneakers.
In a word: madcap.
Mij Kim, UTS, NSW
Kim's collection was all about texture: wool, felting, quilting, patchwork, blanket dressing. The clothes had a lovely crafty feel: arty but wearable.
In a word: artisanal.
Expected: challenging, unconventional graduate design.
Unexpected: how many grads seemed to get the "big volume" memo.
Highlight: Hannah Kim, who seems to be the natural heir to the exuberance of Romance Was Born or Emma Mulholland.
Overheard: "This humidity is killing me and my hair".
Spotted: Dannii Minogue front-row.
Soundtrack: minimal, pulsating electro.
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