Ginger & Smart celebrated their tenth year with a collection inspired by desert designs particular to the Moroccan and Saharan regions. A series of abstract geometric prints ranged from bright kaleidoscopes and linear pastels through to desert-hued mosaics and graphics inspired by Azilal rugs. The sport-luxe theme featured throughout with relaxed jackets, laidback pants and tee dresses of silk lycra. Metallic knits, boxy quilted coats and a boyish tangerine suit brought the wanderlust back to an urbane reality for autumn/winter.
Alice McCall took us to an exotic world filled with macaw parrots and vibrant flowers. Inspired by 80s casino glamour and 1940s Orientalism, the collection included kimonos, wide-legged jumpsuits and swing jackets as well as modern pieces such as crop tops and loose-fitting twill pants. The palette was inspired by nature: turquoise blues, scarlet and tropical greens, and stunning embellishments such as ornate gold embroidery added a touch of richness throughout. Highlights included a sweeping chiffon maxi dress sequined with cranes and the ‘Stardust’ jacquard knit jumper and dress emblazoned with kissing cheetahs, a reference to Cartier.
Tigerlily offered a Middle Eastern feel with its tribal, vintage-inspired wandering designs. Throw-on dresses and long knit cardigans featured ethnic prints and detailing in floral and geometric configurations, with influences ranging from Ottoman palaces to Argentinian textiles. Patchwork prints featured in high-waisted palazzo pants, a quilted jacket and a rayon kimono. The ‘Montobello’ maxi dress took us on a magic carpet ride, its hot pink geo-tile print casting a striking vision of Turkish psychedelia.
For the first winter offering of Yeojin Bae’s diffusion line, the designer mixed sharp tailoring and florals in a collection that cited the creative culture of Saint Germain in the 1970s as a key influence. A lipstick-red pant suit and a belted woolen trench segued to floaty sheer watercolour silk dresses, wide leg pants scattered with delicate daisies, and a black corseted, chantilly lace dress. Double-breasted pea coats and coats in plum and camel tones ventured into androgynous territory, while a cape jacket dazzled in snowy white. Miniskirts, flares and knits were mixed and matched with an appealingly low-key nonchalance.
Michael Lo Sordo won the audience over with dresses featuring futuristic Rorschach-like prints composed of spectacular floating colours, a unique effect achieved through marble-dyeing wool and silk. Elsewhere, a monochromatic canvas was interrupted only by hues of teal and burgundy. Leather and wool were prominent, as was slimline, masculine tailoring influenced by Milanese style. A teal wool coat with black leather trim was testament to Lo Sordo’s ability to design pieces of classic beauty.
Ksubi deified urban ghetto glamour with religious iconography for its AD/BC collection. Denim remained prominent, with a model in a blue denim cape setting the heroic tone like a warrior of the streets. A quilted denim coat, baggy jeans and distressed denim shorts all followed. Black bomber jackets were embroidered with burnished gold acanthus leaves and leather biker jackets gleamed with studs and gold zips. A black muscle tank bearing a gold-font slogan ‘the good versus god’ teamed with black drop-crotch leather pants summed up the collection’s mashup of regality and rock ‘n’ roll.
LIFEwithBIRD gracefully combined evening and sportswear, featuring jersey dresses, an oversized grey marle t-shirt, a collared drop tail dress and a wool coat. A series of digital prints on silk crepe de chine dresses were the stand-out, splashed with colliding colours reminiscent of stained glass in a cathedral.