FRANKIE PARIS RUNWAY 07
By Anna Sutton
It was bold prints and nature-inspired collections that truly stole the show last night at Central Pier on Frankie’s Runway 7.
It was all sweetness and light at Karen Walker, with spaced-out blazers, boat pants and shift dresses in celestial and polka dot prints. Navy, white and starry-eyed blues dominated, while a rose-pink swing coat stood out as an exercise in lady-like 60s perfection.
For Kuwaii, A-line and flowing silhouettes mingled effortlessly in a perfectly balanced collection, with the colour palette moving from lilac and baby pink pastels to teal. Gasps of appreciation were heard in the audience when ‘Regalia’ appeared – a box-pleated dress of timeless proportion in a shimmering daffodil hue. A frivolous yellow mackintosh and belted trench in muted grey tweed offered the perfect antidote to rainy day blues.
Limedrop was all about signature prints rendered in lightweight fabrics. White clouds in a blue sky floated over dresses, skirts, scarves and boxy totes worn as backpacks. Monochrome and hyper-saturated rose prints suggested that flower power shows no sign of abating. The drop-tail dress provided maximum drama, with the label remaining true to their love of statement blazers.
With a wintery city-meets-country feel, Leonard St’s collection featured swan, hummingbird and swallow prints on skinny-leg jeans and shift dresses. Alongside the asymmetrical woollen coats were cropped leather jackets and mini skirts, teamed with earthy striped knits for a cosy mix of urban and rustic elements.
Jolet explored Tokyo-by-night with digital prints which featured the neon lights of the city twinkling over cut-out dresses, fitted tops, asymmetric skirts and pants.
Secret South made its first runway appearance since changing its name from Secret Squirrel. Silk and cotton separates featured paisley and geo-digital prints with a strong Turkish feel. These were looks that layered effortlessly beneath woollen coats in tan and plum.
Gorman ended the show with an array of mountain-moving geometric and animal prints on shift dresses, colourful knits and ankle-grazing jeans. Jackets included a bright orange duffle coat and a cropped collarless leather jacket, which provided a lesson in subtle biker style.
With overarching style combined with modern sensibility and timeless beauty, the show helped end the week on a high note and was the perfect lead-in for the anticipated Independent Runway to follow.
By Lucinda McKimm
Show-goers flocked to Central Pier one last time for the final show of this year’s LMFF – the Independent Runway. If we learnt anything from the show, it’s that leather, sheer fabrics and monochrome patterns are here to stay.
Garth Cook kicked off the runway with a somewhat modern and modest collection of darker hues with small bursts of colour. Garments were detailed with lurex and sheer materials, including tailored leather dresses and sparkling knitwear.
Zhivago had us all at the edge of our seats amongst offerings of bold sequined shoulder pads, cut out back detailing and covetable tailored pants in the form of leather and monochrome. Metallic brocade jackets and detailed dresses made for an effortlessly cool collection.
Livia Arena gave us smart, clean designs in both fitted and loose shapes. Sexy skirts with laser cut detailing and thigh-high splits, simple cotton dresses and knitwear made for a modern and feminine look that fits in with Melbourne’s love of grey, white and black.
From Britten, winners of this year's National Designer Award offered a contrasting blend of frayed denim, casual suit jackets and trench coats. Monochrome was present again, alongside casual blacks and shades of blue.
Pageant saw a fun mixture of colour, leather and bright tracksuits in their men’s collection. Neon and blue shirts were sharpened with black collar detailing, with slouchy leather trousers and shorts making for a comfortable cool.
Tettman.Doust modernised tie-dye with beautiful patterns in shades of red and blue. Beaded sheer blouses and modern tailored jackets blurred the lines between feminine and masculine, making for a well-balanced and impressive collection.
It was no surprise to see a combination of denim, leather and pattern from the [Ksubi] boys(http://www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/fashion/directory/shop/ksubi-profile). Printed tees, shorts and sweaters mingled alongside casual jackets and classic denim shirts. As always, Ksubi found the perfect balance between the vibrant and the understated.
From beautiful patterned knitwear to sheer bombers with leather sleeves, Trois confirmed the trends that are on the rise. Monochrome, plenty of leather and sheer long skirts glided down the catwalk, making for an interesting and unexpected combination of patterns, textures and colour.
Enchanting, strikingly feminine and bold was the look for One Fell Swoop. Checked knitwear, backless gowns and detailed dresses made for some seriously beautiful womenswear. The sheer vibe continued, which, instead of making us bored, just cemented our love for this classic trend.
Strateas.Carlucci’s collection paid testament to the ‘less is more’ notion, with clean cuts, simple lines and strong tailored jackets. Sumptuous leather pieces, structured trench coats and long black and white cardigans highlighted minimalism at its finest.
The twin shows were the perfect wrap to a week packed with inspiring design and rare talents that certainly made us proud of our creative, colourful city.
See our previous coverage of the week below:
Penthouse Mouse Midmouse Rundown
LMFF Wrap: Vogue Paris Runway 01
LMFF Wrap: Grazia Paris Runway 03
LMFF Wrap: Harpers Bazaar Paris Runway 05
LMFF Wrap: National Graduate Showcase