How late is fashionably late? Take your seat people; we have a show to start. Really, take your seat… When it did get underway, Runway #3 felt younger and brighter than last night’s moody black outing.
Remember when Alpha60 just made printed tees and striped shirts? Not anymore. Super controlled and concise, the essential three colours were grey, coral and white throughout. The key colours popped up in block paneling, block outfits and tiny floral embellishments.
In a word… Modernist sophistication.
We know and love Gorman for producing huge, fun collections, but these shows are about clarity and concision. Send the philosophy down the catwalk, not everything you’ve ever made! An awesome vegetable print had child-like naivete, but was shortly forgotten as it was followed by a black leather fringed dress, which preceded a quilted, almost Ikat-looking print.
In a word… Scatterbrained.
Jolet was a more serious turn. Tailored and the most wintery of the lot, the highlight was undoubtedly the long shawl-collared coat that appeared twice. The first time, in navy, was over an ultramarine dress that demonstrated Jolet’s handling of colour. The second was an awesome burgundy over oxblood trousers that showed off the flat lying lapels and great cutting of the designer.
In a word… That coat.
You can expect a few things from Virginia Martin’s Bul: a palette of off white, deep red to rust, khaki, olive and blacks, and simple draping cuts. Tonight’s showing delivered on the above. A really well-cut double-breasted coat in khaki wool was a highlight. The range’s signature print (criss-crossed brushstrokes), made its way over an oversize dress and panelled top that played tricks on the eye.
In a word… Effortless.
The winking Bambi head appeared throughout the collection – embroidered on black sweatshirts, patterned on blouses, and on an oversized grey marl sweatshirt. It worked. This was a fun, energetic collection. Pieces like a mini ‘Perfecto’ motorcycle jacket in navy leather continued the mood, and an outfit of a black silk shirt and black jeans with a fox’s head print pattern sealed the deal. Hugely desirable and massively saleable.
In a word… Serious fun.
Some of the best colours of the night. The opening looks were full of dusty blues and came in the form of oversized silk boxer shorts (the fighter kind, not the underwear). There was real skill on display here, slit-and-slashed pockets revealing lace facings, mohair inserts and unique fabrication that didn’t kill the silhouette or feel clumsy. The coats in particular feature the slash-and-cut signature tailoring of the label, but are confident and comfortable enough to consider them future classic.
In a word… An unexpected surprise.
A collection that showed subtle technique and detail. The quiet heroes of Kuwaii’s AW14 range are the darting and funnel-neck features of her dresses and tops. Some of the more challenging pieces of Runway #3, Kuwaii nonetheless delivered with a super-cool purple and magenta T-dress in block panels, long-sleeved tops in wool and a short-body swing coat in an icy blue.
In a word… Technique.
Expected? Bul’s colour palette.
Unexpected? Leonard St.’s Bambi sweatshirts.
Highlight: Livia Arena’s collection as a whole. Someone pick her up.
Overheard: “Nobody else could pull that off!” About Jenny Bannister’s white, fluffy handbag, complete with grapefruit-sized spider attached.
Spotted: A girl in a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle handmade knitted sweater, tucked into a green leather skirt. Best ironic look of the night and totally pulled it off.
Stay tuned for Broadsheet's coverage of VAMFF over the week.
See Runway #1 here.