One of the best runway line-ups for the VAMFF week, if you like black then look no further. Runway #1 was impeccably styled and produced to match the perfectionist ideals of these designers. Here’s our wrap to help you navigate your way through the collections.
Can still bring it. A great opener, setting the mood and feel for what was to come. Black, black and black in techno, bonded fabrics, perforated and wetsuit-like in appearance. The old-school Nike basketball boots, black-on-black Yankees cap and headphones sat better here than anywhere else. Sporty and confident.
In a word… Pro.
The black continued with a scattering of monochromatic tones, a departure from the traditional Josh Goot body-con garments. The better pieces were those making use of the heavier bonded fabrics Goot seems more comfortable with. Sitting more sculpturally on the body, his short and long-sleeve versions of sweatshirts (in black with a big silver square) were Goot classics. As a whole, this collection may be something of a misrepresention to the uninitiated. Hit the store to see what he can really do.
In a word (or three)… Some Goot, some not-so-Goot.
The basics brand continues to stretch its MO, this season with raw-edge tailoring. Completely monochromatic, the grey wool and frayed-seam jackets will sit well in many wardrobes this winter. As will the oversized sweatshirts that ticked both practical and style boxes. The menswear looked too casual next to the womenswear (as did the guys' poor walking skills!), but it didn’t matter because Bassike delivered on its ice-cold reputation.
In a word… your future wardrobe.
Opened with one of the best outfits of the night; a black leather tunic top over a navy, knife-pleated silk skirt. There was a Coogi-style sweater that had just enough of Esber’s control and cool to work, and should be an ironic winner in the colder months. A great collection. Look for it.
In a word… Cool.
Winner of this year’s Tiffany and Co. National Designers Award, this duo drew the lucky straw by walking in Show One. Some Jodhpur-ish leather trousers might struggle in the real world, but the ‘Children of the Apocolypse’ style will find followers in Melbourne.
In a word… Melbourne drop-crotch.
Despite a tough year for the brand, Willow still knows how to do fashion. The polka-dot lacework in black and white was a pleasant repeat throughout the range. The Willow hallmarks were there, such as classic wrap-over designs and an extremely high-cut dress. You’ll need a whole lot of moxie (and legs) to pull that one off.
In a word… Consistent.
The best ‘til last. After repeated black from some of Australia’s better designers, Maticevski can thank the stylists for helping him shine. The opening, ruffled-hem party dress in a pale lilac was creative and controlled, and the colour was repeated in a ‘never-not-sexy’ wrap coatdress. It was the ’40s by way of YSL’s ’80s - a white bodice with full skirt showed just the right amount of midriff and a black metallic dress proved that Maticevski might offer RTW, but couture quality is hard to shake.
In a word… This guy!
Expected? Scanlan would be pro.
Unexpected? Maticevski being the boss.
Highlight: Styling was excellent. Concise monochromatic choices from the ranges to the sport-focused accessories.
Overhead a mother, furious at her daughter for socializing, missing the start of the show and not being able to get to her seat.
Spotted Was I the only one using a pen and paper?
Stay tuned for Broadsheet's VAMFF coverage over the week.