Sophistication reigned on Runway 01 last night, manifesting in contrasting textures and silhouettes that moved from structured, leather bodices to billowing kaftans, making a life of luxury look all too easy. A monochromatic palette was key, with two-tones, jewel-like metallics and floral prints brightening the mood for autumn/winter.
Josh Goot sharpened up slouchy black leather track pants and a chequer-printed track top with a tailored black blazer in what was the first and most street-smart collection in the show. High-contrast was the key theme here: mottled prints were offset by bright stripes and snakeskin in blazers, skirts and dresses; two-tone turtlenecks channeled 60s sci-fi; and acid-brights revolted against subdued backgrounds. Bomber jackets again held central court for Goot, this time in cropped shapes with sporty neon accents.
Scanlan & Theodore was next, featuring a series of innovative looks that re-interpreted the classics using playful fabrications. One model channelled a sophisticated Sandy from Grease in a black off-the-shoulder, deep v-neck peplum top and slim-fitting black capri pants. Metallic emerald lurex, a glossy brown leather turtleneck mini dress and a dress featuring interplaying textures of black and cognac leather and fur made an altogether appealing proposition for winter.
Carla Zampatti hit the high notes for her showing, gleaming like the rare pearl of the evening. Silk palazzo pants, sequined jackets, a cream wool caped coat dress, a v-necked black crepe jumpsuit with sheer black mesh and a leopard print trench propelled the collection in a decadent direction. A sumptuous one-sleeve black full-length velvet dress with sequin detail provided wow factor, as did a halter neck backless gown, which shimmered as a bronze sequined vision of an old school Hollywood goddess.
Akira Isogawa’s collection travelled to Japan by way of easy-wearing, refined designs that drew inspiration from antique kimonos and courtly elegance on its day-off. Two-tone pants, reversible flared jackets, deep v-neck slash-sleeved kaftans and a reversible belted coat in a dusky palette of red, black, grey and vibrant floral prints featured tightly cinched waists or relaxed silhouettes.
Collette Dinnigan’s collection blossomed from the idyllic vistas of Claude Monet’s garden. A bouquet of iris blue, lilac, and pale green provided an impressionistic counterpart to her signature French lace dresses. Citrus lace sparkled amongst the requisite black and white pieces, as if an invitation to a champagne garden party, while a sleeveless, lemon-coloured silk mini-dress with sequin beading prevented the whole affair from becoming too misty-eyed.
Toni Maticevski’s collection was inspired by twilight and featured structural eveningwear in two-toned leather and metallic crepe concoctions fashioned for a modern mermaid. Cropped tailored jackets, pleats and pencil dress silhouettes combined a palette of white, black and gold with space-age adornments featuring ornate beading and embellished peplums. Two-tone pastel scuba looks in a wash of mauve were finished with racer-backs, bold zips and a daring thigh split for a new rendition of the modern-day Bond girl look that has been around for a few seasons.
The show closed with Willow, whose Grecian-futuristic collection led Australian fashion light years away into a dream-like world. Exquisitely draped dresses, structural, cut-out leather bodices and glamourfied grunge were mixed using sheer and metallic elements. An oversized black leather jacket presented a glittering upgrade on the moto trend, its elongated collar flapping like fish fins in a dark, bejewelled sea. A sheer black kimono top flowed over black leather leggings in a collection where day and night became blurred. The finale was a sheer white gown with liquid bronze detailing, a glimmering, gossamer-light triumph with fluttering cape sleeves that billowed around the model like an angel’s wings.