You’d assume fast-paced New York living would result in equally fast-paced and erratic clothing but it seems to have had the opposite effect on Jade Sarita Arnott and her Melbourne label Arnsdorf. Once upon a time Arnsdorf was known for sculptural silhouettes, optical illusion prints and bursts of bright block hues. Next summer, however, the now New York-based label will release an unusually subdued collection entitled The Circle.
Making its debut at the recent Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, The Circle is an exercise in soft tailoring – much like many of the designers showing at fashion week. But more than just soft shirt dresses and subtle draping, The Circle sees Arnsdorf enter into a mature space where structure and volume has been replaced with ethereal lines and unique proportions.
The collection is far more approachable than those of previous years. Even the signature bright hues of seasons past have slightly faded. Ice blues, mint greens, soft nudes, warm oranges and bright fuchsia tones are restrained via painterly, washed-out dyes and sheer fabrics. Airy linens and liquid silks add subtle shape with geometric seams lined with block colour, while white netting gives the collection an unexpected throw back to the 90s.
More than anything it’s the long and lean silhouettes found in the collection that indicate Arnsdorf is entering into a more refined era. It's only been a few seasons in the making but the journey has been well worth the wait.