There was a time when Fairfield’s Grandview Hotel was a typical pub with cold beers and parmas, serving as a reliable stop for pre-drinks before heading into the city. These days there’s charcoal smoke, pomegranate and arak in a dining room telling a different story. The El-Fakhri family owns the building and they teamed up with a trio of Rumi alumni to open Sama in the pub’s kitchen.

The menu reads traditional at first glance, but there are small twists throughout. Think whitebait fatteh layering pita with fish, tahini yoghurt, pine nuts and dill. Or lamb nayyeh (a spiced raw mince dish) scattered with pistachio, sesame and rose petals, and served with fresh vegetables and crunchy beef crackers. The charcoal grill does some heavy lifting too, pushing out protein-laden mains.

The drinks list, alongside Australian bottles, spotlights Lebanese wines, many from high-altitude Bekaa Valley vineyards. Cocktails lean into the owners’ heritage, too: an Espresso Martini is made with Lebanese coffee, and an Old Fashioned is served in glass that’s been smoked with cherry wood and sumac. Plus, there are five types of arak (an anise spirit) available by the glass.