Pizza Religion is an Italian restaurant in only the loosest sense – it serves pizza and the ambience is noisy and familial. And in a city packed with pizzerias faithful to Italy, that’s what makes it stand out. So much so that Elsternwick is the brand’s fifth location, after Hawthorn East, Armadale, Malvern and Geelong.

Take a seat at the narrow timber bar for a view of thin-base pizzas rolling through the electric oven, or grab a larger table if you’re in a group. This spot shares the same menu as its siblings. Non-traditional hits include pork and veal meatball with pecorino and balsamic glaze; butternut pumpkin, pesto, goats cheese and toasted almonds; and of course, the cult 18-hour braised beef cheek with cauliflower puree, caramelised onion, gremolata and truffle oil.

There are non-pizza dishes too, such as sticky glazed chilli ribs and arancini.