Mike McEnearney grew up in Sydney and made his name there. First working alongside some of the best chefs of his generation at Neil Perry’s Rockpool, before going on to open Kitchen by Mike, a democratic canteen known for uncomplicated food.

At From Here by Mike, inside 1 Hotel in the Docklands, McEnearney makes his Melbourne debut with an all-day concept that loudly champions Victorian ingredients. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus each feature a map of the state. Twenty-plus pins locate star producers including Meredith Dairy, Valenca Free Range Pork, Aurum Poultry and Timbarra Farm.

Breakfast might look like miso and avo toast, chicken and ginger congee or a collagen broth with turmeric and lion’s mane ’shrooms.

At lunch the team fires up the wood grill for poached snapper, roasted porchetta and smartly sauced pumpkin. McEnearney’s signature chicken-liver pâté returns at dinner, alongside a twice-baked goats cheese soufflé.