Zareh is Tom Sarafian’s debut restaurant. It comes after years of incubation and hot anticipation, following a steady stream of pop-ups; a luxe hummus, harissa and toum brand; and a false start or two.

The restaurant, which is named for Sarafian’s grandfather, is a deeply personal tribute to his and partner Jinane Bou-Assi’s respective Armenian and Lebanese heritages.

The custom-built wood oven and charcoal pit is the star of the kitchen, and it’s the key driver behind a smoky-line-up that includes dishes like crisp-skinned rainbow trout, blushing harissa-spiced lamb cutlets, and an outstanding chicken kebab served with toum and pickled green chilli. Before that, the best way to start your meal is with bastourma toast and kafta nayyeh. Sarafian’s signature hummus also makes cameos throughout the menu.

There’s also a top-tier drinks list featuring a strong brandy offering and Lebanese arak (anise liquor) served three ways.