Founded by two friends and hospo rookies, The Pontian Club began as a homespun pop-up, serving Sunday lunches of flame-grilled meats and other Greek dishes in a Brunswick East building. As the club grew more popular, ex- Gimlet chef Oscar Tan also joined the duo.

Transitioning from pop-up to permanent, its laid-back Smith Street home reflects the club’s patchwork ethos. The fit-out is a thoughtful mix of repurposed furniture and artefacts.

The menu is concise, considered and protein-forward, echoing the clean simplicity of regional Greek cooking. As in Greece, the first thing to hit the table is crusty white bread. It’s followed by lamb chop, served with red peppers, tzatziki and a lemon cheek on the side; chicken steak with greens that have been plancha-grilled; or classics, such as a generous slice of vegetarian moussaka.

There’s also a changing dessert, which might include a standout olive oil cake.