Michael McCormack owns Milieu Property and this restaurant, which he runs with his sister Katie McCormack, is under Peel by Milieu, a residential development on the corner of Wellington and Peel streets in Collingwood.
The food and fit-out are effortlessly polished, and everything appears to run as smoothly as the brushed-concrete columns and dark-brass balustrades that lead you to the lofty but intimate mezzanine dining space.
There’s a roasted quarter Milawa chicken with a thick wedge of charred savoy cabbage and chicken jus. And a $58 chef’s menu. The menu also suits diners who want to order several things to share.
The stand out is the soft, peppery, house-made kangaroo pastrami, served on a smudge of cultured sour cream (made from scratch) and a layer of crunchy shallots. And a pulled pig’s-head croquette injected with chicken stock, served with green aioli between two soft rounds. Lean over your plate – that sucker bursts like a soup dumpling.
The 50-bottle, Australian-dominant wine list mixes classic and minimal-intervention wines. Choose between chablis, nebbiolo, or local labels such as Jamsheed, Mac Forbes and Patrick Sullivan.