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Hootan Heydari and Jono Hill (Heartattack and Vine, Wide Open Road) were audacious when, less than one year in, they closed down their Johnson Street diner/dive bar, Bedford Street, to have another crack at the space.

There’s a slight coming-of-age spirit to the transition from neon-lit Blade Runner-themed Bedford Street to the sprightly daytime Terror Twilight (which is named after an album from the indie rock band Pavement). It’s almost as if Heydari and Hill woke up one morning with a hangover, decided they’d never drink again, then actually followed through with it.

They replaced the beer taps with a large pastel-pink espresso machine, added indoor plants, warm wood features and a vinyl display. There are even photographs of Heydari’s grandfather and Hill’s grandmother hanging about.

The food is wholesome. There’s a roast-chicken sandwich with lemon mayo, frisee lettuce and pistachio, bacon and prune stuffing, alongside pastries from Cobb Lane Bakery. The breakfast sausage and fried egg, made with mince from Meatsmith and served on a house-made English muffin, this is about as calorie-intensive as the menu gets.

As well as all-day breakfasts, the kitchen makes chicken or shitake and kombu broths, which come with a variety of pick-and-mix sides such as bok choy, enoki mushrooms, bean shoots, and Thai basil or miso glazed eggplants. You can then pick one of three proteins – grilled Tasmanian salmon, poached chicken or fried Sichuan marinated tofu.   Alongside coffee from Wide Open Road, the healthy drinks menu has smoothies, cold-press juices and supplement add-ins with productive-sounding names such as Alpha GPC and L-theanine, which is supposedly good for brain function.